GM #3782870 Block

[Joe L.]

Usually, I report on folks paying too much for parts on eBay. Here I'm going to report on an item that I'm surprised didn't sell for a lot more. The eBay item # is 320062791254. It is an NOS GM casting #3782870 fitted block. A fitted block is, basically, the bare block with factory pistons fitted to each bore. This particular block would have been used for 250 hp and 300 hp engines. However, the block itself would have been the same for any other application. So, by changing the pistons and, of course, installing all the other necessary parts, one could build up an L-79, L-76, or L-84.

This, particular, block had a November, 1964 casting date making it perfect for a 1965 Corvette built within 6 months after that date. Plus, it had a "clean" pad (since it's a fitted block and not a complete engine).

This block sold for $1,025. Keep in mind that this is a BRAND NEW block and correctly dated for a car that's more than 40 years old. If I had room to keep it around here and even though I'm not a "327 guy", I would have paid more than that for it.

[Dennis C.]

Joe, I totally agree... How often do you find...

...a "fresh canvas", so to speak. Perfect broach, new block... I would speculate the value of a block like this should be worth 2 to 3 times what you indicate it brought. Oh, well, maybe I'm just confused - again...

[Joe L.]

Re: Joe, I totally agree... How often do you find.

Dennis-----

That's what I'd say, too. Finding something like this is EXTREMELY rare. Plus, the block appears to be in pristine condition even considering it's been stored for 40 years. There's virtually no rust, at all.

The only possible problem that I could foresee is that the pistons might be frozen in the bore due to unseen corrosion. Even then, they could be removed and all that probably would be lost is the pistons. However, as free as the rest of the block is from corrosion, I doubt that this would be a problem, anyway.

[Joe R.]

Re: GM #3782870 Block

Hi Joe:

Speaking of things not selling for as much as expected, I was surprised that the 67 327/300 engine and transmission in the following ebay ad got no bids the first time it was listed (it has been relisted):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160064405236

Granted, it is just a "core" that would have to be rebuilt, but it is apparently a genuine 67 Corvette engine with a '657 block that was cast on April 16, 1967.

Someone who owns a NOM 67 Corvette 4-speed built after March 67 could use this engine with its existing pad and lose only 50 points out of 350 for the block. If their car is a Powerglide car, they would lose only 25 points for the VIN derivative.

I know a few guys with NOM Corvettes who are disappointed that they are knocked out of the running for a Top Flight because of their NOM engine. It seems to me that this engine would present a reasonable option for overcoming that handicap.

[Duke W.]

Re: Joe, I totally agree... How often do you find.

bubba dont want no 327 block with smal berings and 2 bolt manes bubba want a 4 bolt big bering block with a big cam to bild a torcless wheezer that idle real good lik a reel musle car

But some of us know better.

Duke

[Joe L.]

Re: Joe, I totally agree... How often do you find.

Duke-----

Bubba is not the sort of guy that would pay Big $$$$ for a block like this, anyway. The value of this block is strictly for restoration and comes from the fact that it's got the right casting number, the right date (for about 1/2 of the 65 small blocks ever manufactured), it's got original broach marks with a clean pad, and it's NEW.

For high performance use in which restoration is not an objective, I think that the later blocks are a better choice regardless of what CID one wants to use.

[Duke W.]

Re: Joe, I totally agree... How often do you find.

For a short stroke engine (3.25" or less) I like the 870 blocks. They're (slightly) lighter, and the small bearings reduce internal friction relative to 350 blocks; 870 block failures are extremely rare. Many have been destroyed by the weak OE rods, but that's a consequential failure.

The 870 block and "small" bearings are more than robust enough for any reasonable street configuration and were popular with F5000 builders 30 years ago making about 500 gross HP at 8000 revs.

With OE components (except connecting rods) 325 NET horsepower and 7200 revs with decent low end torque is easily achieveable. The 327 configuration has a perfect combination of torque and revs for a 3000 pound sports car. It's also relatively light and achieves reasonable fuel economy.

Duke

[mike cobine]

Re: GM #3782870 Block

This one is easy. Why fake a '67 327 when you can fake a '67 427 and make more money?

[Joe R.]

Re: GM #3782870 Block

Hi Mike:

I agree with this logic if the purchaser intends to make a fake car with the intention of misrepresenting the car as having its original engine.

However, my observation had to do with the fact that without any faking anything at all, this engine would overcome most of the 350 point deduction for a completely incorrect non-original engine. This can be a big help for NCRS Flight judging.

If the car is a 67 Corvette built after March 1967, this block would get either 300 or 325 of the 350 points allocated to the block, depending on whether the car has a 4-speed or a Powerglide installed. The only deductions would be for the incorrect VIN derivative on the pad and the (possibly) incorrect HO engine code stamping that indicates a Powerglide transmission. That makes it possible to Top Flight or even Duntov the car, despite the fact that the engine is clearly NOT the car's original engine.

I sometimes hear people complain that since they have a non-original engine in their car, they are forced to either give up on getting a Top Flight or resort to making a fake engine. I wish that more people understood that the bulk of the points allocation for the block is tied up in the casting number and the casting date. The numbers stamped on the pad carry a comparatively small points allocation (50 points total), which is not enough to prevent someone from achieving a Top Flight or even a Duntov.

This approach does not require any form of "faking" or "restoring" the pad, and it frees the owner from worrying about how others might view his decision to alter the pad.