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Can anyone give me a quick schooling on numbers on the pad of a 1969 350-350hp? What should I look for to make sure it hasn't been restamped? I know on midyears there are broachmarks from the original stamping.....what about 1969? If anyone has a picture of their engine VIN and Trim tag from that year I'd love to see it. Thanks!
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Re: 1969 matching numbers
The stamp pad is not your only concern.The casting # on the block should be #1 and the correct heads are very important on the 350/350 also. Trim tag is also important, but I would make sure the engine is correct, not just a # matching pad.The block # should be 3932386,3932388,3956618,3970010. That will vary with build date.Build dates will start with A for January and so on.Your heads should be 3921786 or 3921787. These heads are very expensive if you have to buy them and somewhat hard to find.Hope this helps. Tom -
Re: 1969 matching numbers
Broach marks...C2 or C3, broach marks are NOT from the pad stamping process.
Broach marks exist because the top "pad" surface is an extension of the block surface, or "deck", where the right head is bolted. Both deck surfaces and the oil pan rails were simultaneously machined by a huge multi-bladed machine that cut the cast iron block like a cheese knife. Broach marks are the tiny tracks left by nicks and imperfections in the blade cutting edges.
A good starting point for buying a 69 is to buy the 68-69 TIM&JG; it should have an explanation of the pad stamp format, as well as myriad other very important information about 69s.Comment
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Re: 1969 matching numbers
John, the "schooling" takes years and involves examining hundreds of cars. There are no shortcuts when it comes to experience. Take someone knowledgable with you.Comment
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Re: 1969 matching numbers
John,
If all the numbers match and your pretty sure it is the real thing, try the following. Start it up and pop the hood. Stand about 5 feet in back of it(under car exhaust). If it doesn’t sound like 8 very angry giants spitting at you, it is not original. Move to the engine compartment. Place a large cup of black coffee on the 14 by 3 open element air cleaner. Add two creams and 4 sugars. If the coffee doesn't turn light brown and have a sweet taste within 10 seconds, it is not original. Last test. Take it for a ride around town. Slowly accelerate through the gears. Get up to 30mph and shift into 4th. Just nudge the accelerator. If it doesn’t ping, it is not original.
Even though this is only a small block and built after the Last Sting Ray, it still has large valve heads(no hardened valve seats), a big cam(lumpy idle), and 11.00:1 compression ratio(2 points higher than today’s gas will support). The compression ratio of this engine might not seem like a big deal, but I assure you it is. It is the one reason I have put less than 5000 miles on mine since 1983.
If it passes these tests, make sure it is all there, including the A.I.R., and that it has not been ‘messed’ with.
The shape of the pad and the broach marks are the same as on the mid year vettes. The only difference I can think of is that mid years used a "F" for the engine plant, the '69 uses a "V". Mine was built Dec, 17, 1968 and reads..19S7111?? V1211HW. The block is 3932386 cast Dec, 8th. The heads are 3927186 cast Nov 30. The intake is 3927184 cast Nov, 25. The carb is a 7029207 I can't remember the date off the top of my head. Every thing on mine is within two weeks(give or take)of each other.
Hope this helps...Comment
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Re: 1969 matching numbers
John
Everything Gene said is about correct.And if you are not sure do as Steve said and take a knowledgeable person with you..Try to find an NCRS member in the area to look at it,if he has been through the judging process or is a judge he could be of great help.. TomComment
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