I pulled the engine on my 65 to re-seal/clean some things up and while stripping the old paint off the engine I found lots of blue paint but also some yellow which looks like my engine code (HL). Does anyone have the sequence of events at Flint Engine? It looks like the "L" ran as the block must have been flipped over in the process before it dried or I guess it could have been painted upside down. You can barely see remnents of the "H".
-
-
Re: Archeology 101
The marks on your engine block are typical; see the posts below by Mike Ernst on December 26/27. His photo shows a 71 LT-1 with similar markings. The paint mark is new to me but is some kind of engine plant inspection mark.
The crayon marks were made early in the engine manufacturing process and designate the type of engine that will ultimately be produced. Maybe someone can add whether the marks were there before machining, or added just before assembly. Since the block is upside down when the marks were made, they may have been added just before the assembly started with the crank.
Paint was applied sparingly later as one of the final steps. -
Re: Archeology 101
Chuck is correct. The engine suffix, along with several other codes and paint marks, was put on the sides of the block, most likely, just as it started on it's way down the line as an empty block. The block was upside down throughout the building of the short block so the suffix would also have been put on upside down. Here's an example of an "RF" from a 64. There was also a "17" near the front of the block but I don't know exactly what it was for. John Hinckley was at the Flint plant some time in the 70's so maybe he can tell us more about the paint/number codes.
Comment
-
Re: Archeology 101
First step is machining of raw cylinder cases. Next they are cleaned, and placed upside down on the line. Next crayon marks showing the suffix code are placed on the side of the case (usually in yellow crayon, but I have seen some in white crayon) -- sometimes while the case is still warm from the cleaning process -- thus the crayon melting. After that assembly begins. Camshaft bearings and camshaft, then crankshaft and so on. I think the core plugs (what are commonly called freeze plugs) went in near the beginning as well.
I believe John Hinckley wrote a story for "Corvette Enthusiast" recently on the subject. Complete with period photographs.
If you ever saw the piston/connecting rod install and tightening process at Flint when it was done by hand (up to the late 1980s) you would be just amazed. Five to seven guys moving around a cylinder case in a rhythm of motion -- all a$$holes and elbows (can I say that?). Never running into each other and torquing ALL (we hope) the rod bolts by hand. That "dance" was a thing of beauty, but at an enormous human cost. It kind of made me sad to see the tightening replaced by a machine in the 1990s.
It is wise to remember that some details of engine production differed from Flint to Tonawanda, and some changed over time -- so one has to identify exactly what year and engine one is talking about when details are discussed. The items I referred to in the first paragraph are useable for both Flint and Tonawanda up to about mid to late 1990s or so.TerryComment
-
NOS Short Block
Here's a pic of an NOS 327 short block. Because the block was sold over the counter as a service replacement, the engine code on the side is replaced with the letter "S", for service. Because there was no suffix code, I have to assume that the components of the short block were selected by some other method as it went down the line. Perhaps the color of the paint dabs? Something had to tell the assemblers which components to install. (this is a 365/375 HP)
Comment
-
Re: NOS Short Block
I found interesting markings on my '69 "M47" date coded L46 block. This is one of the "experimental casting" blocks that made it to the line as detailed by a Restorer article a few years back. When I pulled/stripped the engine for painting/detaiing, I found the "HW" code written in grease pencil. But before that marking was applied, "OK" was written on the bare block in pencil, then a swath of black paint was brushed over the "OK" and "HW was applied on top of that. There were many other marks and dabs on the block/heads as well. Gives insight to how the block was inspected, deemed okay for use, then built on the assembly line to 350/350 specs. I have pics for those who are interested.Comment
-
Re: Archeology 101
Here's one for you Sherlock Holmes Detectives. Back in my drag racing days my racing partner was the Corvette mechanic at a large Chevrolet dealer. A customer brought his C2 (IIRC it was a '67) in complaining of low oil pressure. After the normal things were done to trace the problem, it was discovered that a main bearing bolt was missing. We all would probably agree that this was impossible, but it did happen----go figureComment
-
Re: NOS Short Block
Michael -
Service short blocks (and "CE" short blocks) were generally run down Line #2 on weekend overtime, as they had to be manhandled off the end of the line with a sling and overhead chain hoist and placed on wood pallets (no heads, intake, or exhaust manifolds to engage the production "hooks" on the overhead delivery conveyor).Comment
-
Re: Archeology 101
Impossible -- no I don't think so. With over 59 MILLION small blocks built by Flint (and there were other small block assembly plants) we might expect some number had any kind of failure one can think of, and probably some we couldn't imagine. One would hope that such "issues" would be caught before they reached the customer, but obviously that didn't happen.
Like the story of the wheel/tire assembly that was inflated and installed on a car and delivered to a customer without a valve stem -- stuff happens.TerryComment
-
'72 base engine missing piston ring(s)
The only new car I ever owned; base engine convertible # 08196. Sold it to a good friend who, after a while, had the engine rebuilt. His mechanic reported missing ring(s). Don't know whether compression or oil.
This must have been why I blew a rubber valve cover oil fill cap off when highway driving with under 1000 miles on the clock. My selling dealer couldn't figure it out. Drove like a charm for the next 44,000 miles.Comment
Comment