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I am thinking of buying a 1968 Corvette, and have little or almost no experience in older car makes and models. I was hoping someone might give me some information on what to look out for or suggestions you might have.
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Re: C3 68
Keith
Many parts for a 68 only fit a 68 so they cost more than the same part that fits 69-73. As I see it the cost of parts to restore a 68 would be more than a 69. Check interior parts in a catalog.
LyleLyle
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Re: C3 68
Many parts for a 1968 are not reproduced as the market for them is so small. Because the '68 was a new design, there were running changes all through the year, e. g. interior door handles, the center storage compartment lid. Vendor catalogs will list an item as being for 1968-72. It WILL fit but may not be as original. As Lyle has said, parts for a '68 are expensive if they can be found.Comment
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Re: C3 68
IMO,The biggest problem would be frame rust and integrity. Check the entire frame especially forward of the rear wheels and the rear spring perch. Tap it with something metal, you should hear crisp metal noise, not a thud. Stick your fingers in the frame holes and see how much rust scale is in there. Shine a light in there too. Beware of undercoating it will hide rust. Stick shifted cars generally take more of a beating than autos. Check the frame to body mounts. The ones in the rear wheel wells tend to go first. Look at the radiator core support to frame mounts. They hold water and tend to rot. Second worst case scenario would be a rusty bird cage or windshield frame. Third would be the body. Has it been hit? If so was it hit hard? Repainted/repaired properly etc...? Body panels lined up with in 68 specs(+/-half a foot )? How does everything function? Like the wiper door, wiper over-ride, wipers, headlights, electrical etc...If its a vert hows the top fit and function. Doors and windows line up and work with and with out the top up? Check for the rivet pop marks above the headlights from core support shift. Look for cracks in the body at known stress points. Hows the chassis front and rear? Control arm bushings OK? Rear spring perch OK? Oil leaks? Road test it to see just how "loose" it is. Brakes pull? Stay away from something that is beat unless you want a project. I could go on and on but these are some of the highlights. Being a car guy I know the trouble spots, 68 vettes have their very own trouble spots. I would suggest (as your doing here)to do as much home work as possible before your purchase. Have a C3 vette person give it a look. Purchase some of the books out there regarding C3 cars. Find a local NCRS member and see if they will look at it. Maybe theres a vette restoration shop in your area? Also ask yourself if originality and numbers matching matters to you. Does it have a paper trail, known history, POP and or tank sticker? You can get a #3 driver with nothing matching but a respectable car a lot cheaper than a #3 survivor or #1 nut/bolt resto. As stated, the 68 is its own animal. I have and have had several 68s from GM and they are all one year wonders. Its better to find one as COMPLETE and as CLEAN as possible.Comment
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Re: C3 68
Keith,
The 68's have a very special place in Corvette history. The infamous shark design. A design that some people love and some people hate.
First year model means first year parts which can be hard to find but, they are out there. The hunt is part of the game. If you get a 68 close to what it should be when it left the factory, IMO, you have something to be proud of.
This is the one that puzzles me, there are more parts that interchange between 69 and up. When restoring a car to NCRS specs shouldn't the parts be model year specific?
BryanComment
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Re: C3 68
Thank you all.
The information is very much appreciated and absolutely invaluable to me. -someone who has very little knowledge about purchasing / restoring a 68 corvette.Comment
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Re: C3 68
Keith,
You should recruit someone who knows old Corvettes in general and 68's in particular to help you inspect the car(s) you are considering. Even if you have to pay someone to inspect it you may be many 1000's of dollars ahead it they have you pass on one that is bad condition or incorrect.
If you want a driver, not an NCRS correct car, it will be easier to find and easier to make nice since you don't have to use 68 correct parts. As others have said, 68 parts are often one year only, hard to find and expensive to buy.
VerleComment
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