crankshaft ID

[Mike McKown]

Use a two pound hammer,

not a claw hammer or anything light. You don't have to pound the balancer on with three blows. Just give it solid bumps. Maybe a dozen of them. When it's all the way on, you'll feel it in the hammer handle.

If it makes you feel better, chock the back of the crank against the engine stand to prevent the jar from impacting the thrust bearing. I guess if the engine's in the car, you can have someone hold the clutch in. Automatic? You'll just have to sweat it out but unless you're a gorilla type, I don't think you'll have a problem.

If you're worried about cosmetics, use a 2 X 4 wooden block between the hammer and balancer.

[Clem Z.]

i used a 5 # babbit hammer

a friend who worked for mesta machine used these hammers to "adjust" things on big rolling mills.

[Scott Marzahl]

Re: i used a electric hot plate to heat the balanc

I would simply have the crank drilled and tapped and then you don't have to worry about the damper coming loose or damaging anything during installation.

[Mike McKown]

A five pounder is actually best

but I was reluctant to suggest it for a couple reasons.

[Duke W.]

Re: i used a electric hot plate to heat the balanc

John - I take it you're assembling the short block? Don't forget to take the final deck clearance measurments and let me know.

If the engine is in the cold garage I don't see any problem heating the balancer up in the oven to 120-150 degrees or even maybe 180, which should expand it enough to make pounding it on a little easier.

I wonder how Flint did this task? Anyone know?

Since I'm now "involved" with the 300 HP configuration as opposed to just SHP/FI versions I'd like to know the sure fire way to install the balancer without screwing anything up.

Duke

[Terry M.]

[Mike McKown]

Re: i used a electric hot plate to heat the balanc

The '63 shop manual says to DRIVE IT ON using tool J-5590. Only problem, J-5590 is illustrated as a transmission front bearing installer tool in the engine section! It looks like a section of pipe.

I can visualize a "C" press locating on the crank pilot in the rear and pushing on the balancer on the front. Regular and SHP at flint.

[Ronnie Robertson # 36786]

My 300 hp '66 crank

had some wear at the balancer end, but I installed the balancer with the hammer method and it seemed OK. After getting the car on the road, it wasn't long before "Bam", the balancer came off. Fortunately it was at very slow speed, and it went down and grooved the road, not the car.
Pulled the engine again and had the crank drilled. Problem solved!

[John H.]

Re: i used a electric hot plate to heat the balanc

Mike -

That's exactly how it was done, as Terry noted - the tool was an overhead-suspended beam, with a fixed reaction detail at the rear end that located in the end of the crank, and a toggle-operated hinged detail at the front operated by an air cylinder that pushed the damper on; no forces exerted against the thrust bearing surfaces.