68 Power Brakes Total Rebuild

[Don Schuette]

I just received a 68 vette that was in climate controlled storage for over 21 years. My first step is the brakes. I do know one of the calipers was leaking and the car also came with four new calipers and pads in the box. Four questions:

1. Where is the best place to get a replacement master cylinder. I believe I need to get one with the same two letter code the original has.

2. Rubber brake hoses to the caliper or braided stainless steel?

3. Any suggestions on cleaning out the metal lines to each of the four corners of the car?

4. DOT 3, DOT 4, or silicone brake fluid? Any suggestios on bleeding (pedal, vacuum, power?)

Thanks in advance.

Don Schuette NCRS Member 32294

[Terry M.]

Re: 68 Power Brakes Total Rebuild *TL*

First thing you should do is decide what you want to do with the car. We can help you with that decision if you describe the car to us - that is mileage, number of owners, does it have the original parts?, any original paperwork and so on.

The answers to several of your questions will depend on what you intend to do with the car.

Just as an example - if you wish to race the car stainless steel braided brake hoses might be fine (I really don't know, since racing is not my specialty), but if you want to have the car judged by NCRS they are not such a good idea.

Give us some more information and we will be better able to help you.

Yes your replacement master cylinder should have the same two letters stamped on it as this one has, but not all replacements have letters - another example of which parts you get depends on what you want to do with the car.

Terry

[Jerry Clark]

Re: 68 Power Brakes Total Rebuild

Hi Don:

1. Where is the best place to get a replacement master cylinder. I believe I need to get one with the same two letter code the original has.

I am reluctant to recommend a source for this and Terry gave you the answer to the numbers portion.

2. Rubber brake hoses to the caliper or braided stainless steel?

Rubber if you intend to be judged and they are sufficient for most driving purposes although braided sure won't hurt anything but judging points.

3. Any suggestions on cleaning out the metal lines to each of the four corners of the car?

I would be very tempted to replace them given how long the car has been stored regardless of climate control or not, this will also allow you to select any fluid you choose without concern.

4. DOT 3, DOT 4, or silicone brake fluid? Any suggests on bleeding (pedal, vacuum, power?)

Silicone regardless, gravity bleed if applicable, ( possible ), vacuum otherwise.

Now that is how I would approach it, in the end it's up to you.

best of luck

jer

[Don Schuette]

Re: 68 Power Brakes Total Rebuild

Terry:

I'm the fourth owner; my father was the second. I don't have much paperwork. Yes, it has many extra parts. Other than the original motor still in it. There is another total long block from another 1968 (427/390) recently rebuilt with TRW pistons to reduce compression, along with an extra M21, and still another set of heads that has been redone. I have two aluminum manifolds, one oval port, another rect. port. All redone heads have titanium valves with hardened seats. I plan on pulling out the original motor for a future restoration and use the rebuilt motor for now.

I'm looking to make the car a daily driver but keep all original parts for later restoration/use. The car only has 37,XXX miles and original AC. I'm looking for a dependable driver. At this exact time, I'm not interested in sticking directly with NCRS standards; but I am keeping all original parts I have.

Thanks,

Don

[Terry M.]

Re: 68 Power Brakes Total Rebuild *TL*

Don,

If you don't intend to have the car judged:

1) Is no best - just shades of gray, but be sure if you have power brakes you get a cylinder for them. Power brake cylinder diameter is greater than manual. Others may know the diameter, I would be guessing. I deal with casting numbers, but if you are not going for judging then casting numbers mean nothing.

2) I am told SS braided will give one a firmer pedal, but have no personal experience.

3) Jerry gives good advise. Replace the lines. Lots of folks like stainless steel - lasts forever, but can be difficult to seal at the fittings as it has no give.

4) I like silicone DOT5 - others do not. If you are willing to bleed and flush every 2 years glycol is fine. That is what I do with my driver vehicles and glycol is inexpensive. For the Corvette, that mostly sits, I like DOT 5.

By all means save the original parts - you, or the next owner, might some day want them.

Good Luck. Terry