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Generally it's less expensive and far less hassle to sell a non-AC car and buy one with AC if you really want it. Personally I would not do it given the time, expense and hassle.
Patrick
Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.
Thanks for the heads up guys. I was just thinking that if it wasn't too much hassle that now would be a good time to add the A/C but I can see that it's more work than it would be worth.
I have purchased several 1969-72 type A/C complete setups on e-bay for about $300 each as spare parts for my car. This gets you the fiberglass box and all the guts. Most of the parts are FINALLY available in repro form, check Zip or Ecklers I think, (hoses, tubes, etc) but the POA is a functional but obviously incorrect replacement.
The big glitch in converting to an "NCRS correct" A/C is that the pass compartment vents are deleted (those 3" diameter holes that can only be seen when the front clip is removed) and patched. So, while you can get it to work and look OK, a knowledgable Corvette person could tell.
By the way, a small block A/C actually will work well enough that you will have to turn it down or risk freezing your B*TT off! But, in a BB car, the pass exhaust manifold comes so close to the firewall box that you should insulate it with a piece of "coolmat" (like used on race cars) to get it to work well.
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