Re: 1971 trim tag date vs VIN calculated build dat

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  • Patrick K. Graham

    #1

    Re: 1971 trim tag date vs VIN calculated build dat

    I've looked all over the hidden parts of the car and under some of the red paint and it appears that the trim tag Bridgehamptom Blue is the correct paint color for the car. The interior color per the trim tag is dark blue and only the center console has signs of blue under the now painted black. I've found the blue paint under the carpets, on the doors (which at least one is dated March 1971), and on both windshield pillars. There is even blue paint on the same side and edge as the VIN tag. I scrapped an area below the VIN tag close to the windshield. This makes me think the driver windshield pillar is original. Then the question is, was the VIN tag replaced? Or was this car pulled off of the assembly line for some reason and not put back into production until three and a half months later (if that even ever happened)?
    Can someone show me a picture of what the VIN tag rivets are supposted to look like. Mine have wavy edges, like a cog that had the teeth rounded almost completely off. Thanks, Patrick
  • Chuck S.
    Expired
    • April 1, 1992
    • 4668

    #2
    Re: 1971 trim tag date vs VIN calculated build dat

    The hidden overspray of Bridgehampton Blue would back up the trim tag as being original.

    Patrick,the "rosette" head rivets are the original style rivets, and these are available from vendors. I don't know if they are NOS or repro, and haven't heard any discussion about the authenticity of VIN plate appearance using them. I believe both the VIN plate and trim plate were installed on the car early on the trim line, so it's unlikely the car would have been removed for repair and received a trim plate after repair. Any repair items would have been done after the car was completely assembled.

    The only reason for changing a VIN plate in the resto world would be to match a car to a replacement engine that is conveniently otherwise correct. However, given the "used and abused" nature of the car, that scenario seems unlikely...unless the buyer of a "matching numbers" car discovered the fraud, and it's been passed from owner to owner.

    Comment

    • Edward M.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • November 1, 1985
      • 1913

      #3
      Re: 1971 trim tag date vs VIN calculated build dat

      Can you post pictures of both the VIN tag and the trim tag. Two possibilities come to mind.

      1. A mistake was made on the trim tag and the wrong date code was put on it. Highly unlikely, but possible.

      2. The trim tag was replaced. What do the rivets look like that hold the trim tag in place? I saw something like this once. A seller wanted his car to be "originally" red / black, so he found a trim tag with those colors on it. The date code didn't match, but the seller didn't seem to care about that.

      Pictures would help.

      Comment

      • Patrick K. Graham

        #4
        Re: 1971 trim tag date vs VIN calculated build dat

        I'm not sure how to post pictures. The trim tag rivets look unmolested to me (but what do I know). Since the trim tag codes matched the hidden overspray paint and the trim tag currently does not match the cars current color or interior, any motivation to "swtich" the trim tag evades me. And since the engine is not "numbers matching" a VIN switch seems unlikely, unless it was a while ago and the switched motor was subsequently replaced with a non-numbers matching engine. I'll see what I can do about pictures. Exactly where can I look to try to see if the windshield pillar was replaced? What am I looking for?
        thanks,
        Patrick

        Comment

        • Chuck S.
          Expired
          • April 1, 1992
          • 4668

          #5
          Re: 1971 trim tag date vs VIN calculated build dat

          IMO...If the upper windshield frame and pillars were rusted enough to require replacement, the easiest way to accomplish this would be to make a perpendicular cut across each pillar from 1"-2" above the cowl. If this method would elimate most of the corrosion, the donor frame would be cut in the same manner and re-welded to the pillar stubs above the cowl, and the welds ground smooth.

          A better result would be obtained by hole-sawing the spot rivets holding the frame pillar base reinforcements to the cowl, and grind the spot weld plugs smooth. The donor frame would be removed using the same method and installed by plug welding through the holes left by it's removal.

          Comment

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