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have your buddy gently pump the clutch
also did you check that you did'nt mushroom the pilot bushing? -
Re: Help!! C2 Muncie 4-speed transmission installa
Sometimes plastic line up shafts are too loose and you think that you have it aligned and you really don't. Make sure that the line up shaft is perpendicular to the flywheel. Hope this helps.Comment
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Re: Help!! C2 Muncie 4-speed transmission installa
Rod: Phil gave you the secret. Engage the cluch to free up the alignment between the disc and pressure plate. It will slide right in --unless there's a pilot bushing problem.
By the way, assuming you did this in the car, did you have any problem getting the tranny moved rearward enough to clear the bellhousing? Or did you have to drop the bellhousing and lower/raise the BH & tranny as a pair?Comment
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Re: Help!! C2 Muncie 4-speed transmission installa
Rod,
I had the same problem trying to attach the transmission on my '67. I tried all the suggestions you have received with no success. I finally cut four pieces of threaded rod(same as the bolts)and inserted them through the transmission mounting holes into the block. Using washers and nuts, I slowly tightened them equally and the transmission slid in all the way. You just can't slide the transmission in as straight as required laying under the car. Email me if you'd like to know any more about how that system worked for me, but it did the trick when all else failed. I know how frustrating it can be..feel free to either email or call me...(949 348 9525)Comment
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Re: Help!! C2 Muncie 4-speed transmission installa
I will assume the pilot bearing is OK still.
If you are only 3/4" away then you should be able to us the real bolts.
As mentioned bring the transmission slowly into position by adjusting each bolt.
Measure top and bottom and right and left.
You want to bring it in only a little at a time, I used a mic and only moved about 1/32" at a time when getting to end. As front rounded area gets close to Bellhouse round area go very slow - even then you may hear a little pop!
Bet your top/bottom distance is not equal.
Was not able to get mine out without bellhousing removal. Pain in the even with a lift.
Good Luck.Comment
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Re: Help!! C2 Muncie 4-speed transmission installa
Rob,
I can't believe I'm posting here anymore, but for your benefit, make sure that the front of the trans case and rear of the bell face are coplaner when you push. Someone on the pedal would be recommended.Comment
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Re: Help!! C2 Muncie 4-speed transmission installa
I had someone keep the clutch released while I changed the angle of the engine with a jack tuntil I stumbled on the right alignment; then it slid right in.Comment
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Re: Help!! C2 Muncie 4-speed transmission installa
Well, its almost 10:00 PM EST. Let us know how you are coming and what you had to do.Comment
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Re: Help!! C2 Muncie 4-speed transmission installa
Rod,
I'm with Rob on this, have had mine out four times while on jack stands and have always had to pull it up tight the last 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch using the bolts or threaded rods. Be very careful about equal presure on each.
PeteComment
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Re: Help!! C2 Muncie 4-speed transmission installa
I hate to say it but I too used the mounting bolts to pull the transmission that final 3/4". Many muncie case ears have snapped off doing this - if you do this PROCEED WITH CAUTION. We wiggled that transmission for so long and pumped the clutch and it wouldn't go in. Out came the bolts and we tighthtened each one a turn, gave the tranny a wiggle - so on and so forth until it was installed. Overall, it was a very frustrating and physically demanding thing and when I had to do it all over again after excess lube from the input splines was flung all over the clutch disk.
BrianComment
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Re: Help!! C2 Muncie 4-speed transmission installa
Brian-----
You're exactly correct. Using the transmission mounting bolts to "pull in" the transmission to the bellhousing is, BY FAR, the number 1 reason for broken off mounting "ears". If one is ever perusing the transmission offerings at a swap meet, one will note many with welded-on ears. EVERY SINGLE ONE of these was the result of someone trying to pull the transmission in using the bolts. Yes, one can be very careful about "equal" and "careful" and "slow" threading-in of the bolts. However, when the "tink" is heard when just barely turning one of the bolts, you'll know what happened.
It should NOT be necessary to use the bolts to "pull-in" the transmission and if one has to resort to this, then one is doing something wrong. KEEP IN MIND THAT WHATEVER IS PREVENTING THE TRANSMISSION FROM "SEATING" WILL NOT BE OVERCOME BY USING THE BOLTS.
The problem with transmission seating (i.e. "the last inch") is VERY, VERY common. It is caused by improper alignment of the input shaft pilot with the pilot bushing. In theory, it should not occur because of 2 things: first, the pilot bushing bore is "tapered". Second, there is a slight amount of side play in the transmission input shaft. Nevertheless, whether, or not, the problem should occur in THEORY, it DOES occur in practice. Here's what I've found to work:
1) Always use alignment pins in the top 2 transmission mounting bolt holes. These are bolts with the heads cut off that you thread into the top bellhousing transmission mounting holes. These ensure that the transmission is, essentially, perpendicular to the bellhousing mounting surface and also ease the workload. The pins need to be about 1-1/2"-2" long with thread that completely enters the bellhousing threads and the remaining portion unthreaded bolt shank. Grind a slot in the head of the pins so that you can remove them with a screwdriver;
2) ALWAYS use a used transmission input shaft for the alignment tool. NEVER, EVER use a plastic tool or any other sort of so-called clutch alignment tool. Often, this, alone, will be sufficient and enable full seating of the transmission BY HAND;
3) If the above is not sufficient to enable seating, then have someone depress the clutch while you are pushing the transmission in BY HAND.
All of what I have suggested above have been previously suggested by others. If you get the alignment right, the transmission WILL seat by hand. If you don't have the alignment right, using the bolts to "pull-in" the transmission is NOT going to make things right. And, it's VERY risky.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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I used the threated rods to help keep the....
....transmission and bellhousing in proper alignment while mating them, not to apply force to overcome any interference that I ran into. Tightening the nuts equally and slowly worked very wellComment
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