My 1967 runs well but according to the AIM, the throttle rod should not be in the middle hole in the throttle plate (as shown in pic) but the upper, complete with a Holley bushing kit (26-103). While I now have an Edelbrock #1406 the same principle applies. If I placed the rod in the upper position what would be the advantage? And would rod adjustments for throttle and Powerglide kick-down be necessary? Thanks!
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Re: C2 Accelerator Rod Position on Throttle Plate
Paul,
The advantage to the upper hole is you have more control over the throttle position. Right now a little movement of the accelerator peddle moves the butterflys more than the upper hole. This is not an issue with stop and go driving but for cruising at a steady speed the upper hole will make it easier.
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Re: C2 Accelerator Rod Position on Throttle Plate
Hi Paul:
I would recommend changing to the configuration shown in the AIM, although you will need to adjust the throttle linkage after making the change. I do not think the Powerglide kickdown adjustment will be affected at all.
In looking at your photo, it appears that the two forward springs are fighting each other. The top one wants to pull the throttle closed, while the bottom one wants to pull the throttle open. I don't think the bottom spring is a good idea. Maybe it was added to reduce the pedal effort. The pedal effort will go down if you move the rod to the upper position.Comment
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Re: C2 Accelerator Rod Position on Throttle Plate
Paul,
Here's my throttle arrangement on a 67 base engine with a 4 speed:
In the picture is my original throttle rod, which looks like it has a little less bend in the rod then yours. But maybe they were different on a L79 with PG.
Agree with Joe about that forward lower spring.
Jerry Fuccillo
#42179
PS Have since painted the valve cover bolts and reinforcementsJerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968Comment
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Re: C2 Accelerator Rod Position on Throttle Plate
Those comments are interesting. Prior to purchasing my 1967 in 2003 I drove a 1979 L-82 for 17 years. The gas pedal had a light touch and a long throw. The first thing I noticed with the C2 was the stiffness of the gas pedal and the very short throw. But not knowing any better I have driven that way ever since. Even when I converted from Edelbrock to Holley I left the rod in the middle hole.
Well that will change come driving season (April). I will install the rod in the upper location and make appropriate adjustments. Joe, I did remove one of the front springs last summer to lower the tension (pic). Jerry, the L-79 did not come combined with Powerglide. The engine is 327/300 with a ...490 intake and L-79 valve covers. A small number of mods, minor in nature, were necessary to make that work with the base engine and the Edelbrock. Needless to say, the car is not NCRS-judged. But all the correct parts have been retained for the next owner if he/she wishes to go back to the factory look.
Thank you for your help!
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Re: C2 Accelerator Rod Position on Throttle Plate
Paul,
I see it now. Either the power brake hose would interfere with the stock rod, or the manifold sits the carb higher. Thus, the extra bend in the rod.
Engine looks great. What did you use for the finish on the exhaust manifolds?
Jerry FuccilloJerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968Comment
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Re: C2 Accelerator Rod Position on Throttle Plate
Jerry,
(Error in last post: I switched from Holley to Edelbrock.)
The L-79 does sit notably higher. Originally with a 3/8" phenolic heat spacer under the carb, the Edelbrock air cleaner base to clear the electric choke, and a SB hood I had to go to a 2" filter element. With the stinger hood I was able to go back to the 3" filter.
I use rattle can graphite lube on the exhaust manifolds. Spray a little bit into a small container and apply with a Q-tip. The liquid carrier for the graphite evaporates or burns off leaving the powder carbon/graphite coating. A $5.00 can lasts me several years.
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New Fuel Line-Pic
I have not been happy with the look of the Russell SS braided fuel line, pump to in-line filter. So I have fabbed up/bent a 3/8" solid steel line with -6 AN Russell endura fittings and 1/4" NPT to pump. This is just a mock-up but it is close. The flares are 45* for practice purposes with bending/flaring techniques but I have a 37* flaring tool on order to get things on spec. When I see my car again in April I will finalize the line. But now all fitting/adapter ducks are in line.
The #4657 pump shown is what I mentioned in an earlier thread and is obviously not 1967. But that is what is on my NOM block. After searching the internet for ID T10185 it seems that I have a 1962 passenger car block, 327cid, four- barrel, 250hp with Powerglide. I do have Powerglide. That would explain its mild performance but also its reliability. This is not NCRS material but some readers might be interested.
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Re: New Fuel Line-Pic
Make that ID T1018S (note on S rather than 5).Comment
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