If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You must be an NCRS member
before you can post: click the Join NCRS link above to join. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
I no longer have a "rust free" 74. The passenger door has developed several small blisters under the paint by the lock area and visable rust along the bottom edge of the door.
I looked for advice in the Archives and on my "Corvette Restore CD" without success.
The exterior door paint is in excellant condition so I hate to replace the door and face the certainty of mismatched paint.
Try some "Ridrust" It will not hurt the paint and remove the rust. Check out web site, www.ridrust.com Some of the other members have used the stuff so they may have some other input on this.
I've used for smaller jobs with excellent results; Tried to spray down inside of frame, however the results were not as good as expected. You may be able to wrap the entire door in plastic with one return line while spraying the inside of door.
Wish you luck
Alan
If you wish to stop rust on the inside of the door I would buy one of the Rust Cure products on the market. By removing the inside door panel you should be able to coat everything that has rusted. The lower edge of shark doors is usally rusted and on many of them the outer skin is loose on the bottom. Rust and blisters on the back of the door is pretty common.
I use Rid Rust all the time to soak small parts overnight. It is the best product for this use out there. It is not intended, however, as a spray on rust remover. This is stated prominently in the instruction sheets that come with the product. The rusted part needs to be continuosly wet with the product or it won't work. Perhaps naval jelly would stick to the panel and work. Just a thought.
Jeff
Bill/Jeff
Need to be a little clearer with my writings!
Yes the rid rust needs to be constantly flowing over the rust. If you wrap the door in plastic with one (1) drain outlet while spraying the rid rust into the door area with a pump of some sort where it will hit the rust the stuff will work just fine (Just takes a long time). I have done this trick to clean the front springs and upper A arms where you can't get to unless one takes the front apart.
If you visit the ridrust site there are some pictures of auto's whcih have undergone the procedure. I use a 5 gal bucket with sump pump feeding a hose which have holes punched into it and end blocked (an outside flat hose that has multiple small holes in it does not work - holes are two small). Also put a sheet of magnetic material in bucket and if you can warm the fluid up to say 100F with fish tank heater or equal. Heat to speed the process, shut of every so often and clean the particles of rust off the magnetic sheet. As long as there is rust the ridrust will work on it - you want it working on the door rust not the stuff already removed.
Note; this process is a pain in the ---. So if something else works try that first.
Have you found that the Ridrust product also removes black finishes?
I have a couple of black oxide bolts and screws I've been using as "guinea pigs" with the Ridrust, and they both seemed to lose about 50% of their black finish when I used the product. I was able to fire up my black phosphate stew and replate them, but it might change how I use the product if others have seen this too.
Patrick
Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.
Yes the black comes off! Just tried a sample with that result and now I recall some other bolts lost some of the black finish. Also it will take some paint off if its new or (still looking at this) if paint on a non primed surface.
Otherwise great stuff, just did my headlight (C2) motors with it, great results and not shinny.
I also had a very small bolt that appeared to be very shiny zinc with a fair amount of thread rust. At present, it's a very dull zinc, if there's any finish left on at all.
It works great, but I'm not sure I'd use if it I'm not prepared to refinish the item or fastener.
Patrick
Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.
We use cookies to deliver our services, and to analyze site activity. We do not share or sell any personal information about our users. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Comment