Doing 1963 Suspension

[Joel T.]

Guys,

I'm thinking about doing suspension work on my 1963 SWC. From what I can see, the car needs front "A" arm bushings (what's in there now is dried out and cracked). the car sits low so I suspect the front springs should be replaced as well. As for the rear, basically the same thing; dried out and cracked bushings. The rear spring also could use a re-build. The rear end is original and should probably be rebuilt while I have it apart.

Question - How difficult (dangerous with springs) is this to do? I've done basically all the other mechanical work on the car myself and would like to tackle this as well.. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thx,

Joel

[Mike M.]

Re: Doing 1963 Suspension

most dangerous aspect is compressing front springs. get a good spring compressor. have a hole in ceiling drywall of my old shop to remind me how quickly the spring can get away from ya. mike

[Joe L.]

Re: Doing 1963 Suspension

Joel-----

The only kind of spring compressor that can be used on a Corvette is the internal type compressor; there's not enough clearance for external type spring compressor tools. This uses a single center bolt with "dual hook assemblies" on both ends. I've found that even these need to be modified by replacing one of the hook assemblies with a thick steel plate. Using both of the "hook assemblies" that come with the compressor won't usually allow enough compression of the spring.

Since the internal-type compressor is used and there's only a SINGLE threaded rod standing between you and a "bullet", you want to make sure that the spring compressor is of high quality, not damaged in any way, and that you have the spring safety-chained during compression operations. I don't like rental tools for this job---they've often been abused, damaged, and of questionable safety. I would buy a NEW, HIGH QUALITY tool if you do it this way.

The most "scary" thing about this operation on a Corvette is that the spring has to be compressed nearly to "coil bind" (i.e. coils touching each other or "solid")to achieve removal and installation. There's a very large amount of stored energy at this point.

I've tried the GM-type spring compressor which removes the spring by lowering and raising the INNER end of the a-arms. I could never make it work for me. It was a real PIA.

I have seen folks do it with just a floor jack. It looked very simple. I could never make that work for me, either, though. I'm not saying that it doesn't work; I've seen it done. But, it just didn't work for me.

[Roberto L.]

Re: Doing 1963 Suspension

I will comment my experience with front springs. Use a big chain with thick bolt and nut to link the lower A arm and spring. Leave the chain a bit loose to allow spring decompression. Front of the car should be high to allow the lower A arm rotation.

Then use a good floor jack of the hydraulic variety. While jacking the lower A arm, loose the upper ball joint nut a little, not completely, and test the jack function. If everything is OK, you are ready to lower the spring. Dissasemble the upper ball joint nut, and SLOWLY lower the jack which is supporting the lower A arm and spring. Tension will diminish and at one point it will hang dead. Remember the front of the car needs to be high.

As a coward, I was hidden behind the front grille while playing with the jack control, slowly, but everything was uneventful.

For reassembling I used a inner compressor to short the spring a little and did the reverse, trying to catch the spring with the lower A arm while lifting the jack. Chain was there as a security "fusible". I'm alive...

Roberto, NCRS #30019, RMC

[Chris Patrick]

Re: Doing 1963 Suspension

Since there isn't a lot of room for spring compressors, and you never know what the quality is of the rented unit, I have seen where many skip that part and make their own.

A 1/2 inch threaded rod that is at least 6 inches longer than the distance from the bottom of the a-arm to the top of the shock mount is needed. Remove the shock, insert the rod.

Use some type of plate to cover the large lower shock hole. I have heard of people using everything from thick steel plates with holes drilled to pipe flanges. For the top, use a couple of very large washers with a coating of grease. Use one smaller washer on top of that stack.

Have the extra length of the rod on the top. A little oil on the top section of threads is helpful. Put the lower nut on at least an inch on the rod. Stack the washers on the top end and put on the top nut. Tighten the nut on top to compress the spring.

Remove the bolts holding the inner a-arm pivot bar from the frame. Then loosen slowly the nut at the top of the rod until the spring is loose. Once loose, you can remove the rod and pull the spring out the bottom.

Reverse this to reinstall. (Always loved that instruction.) You can use a couple of 6 inch long hardware bolts as guides to align the lower pivot bar until it is close enough to put the regular bolts back in.

One reason to only tighten and loosen the top nut is that you do not have your hands under the a-arm or spring if anything should go wrong. Of the many people I have know to do this, only one ever did. He loosened the nut on the bottom too far and it came off the rod. He was lucky, as the short springs were nearly fully extended at the time.

[Boyan B.]

Re: Doing 1963 Suspension

Joel, I have used a tool that I made as was earlier described as the threaded 1/2 inch rod with a steel plate below the lower a arm. I have done this dozens of times, sometimes twice in the same evening without any problem. Go to the hardware store, buy a long 1/2 threaded rod with 3 nuts. You can double nut a steel plate to the bottom, remove the shock as was described earlier and insert it up through the shock hole. I use an old wheel bearing and big washer on top. Also, alot of anti seize lube on the rod itself.

For assembly, you only need to compress the spring about 1/2 way. If you go too far, you will be fighting it the whole way as the spring will want to pull the a arm out from the center. I compress it about half way, maybe less. Then take your floor jack and put it under the crosshaft of the a arm and jack it up. You dont need longer bolts or anything. With the rod compressing the spring, and the jack on the cross shaft, you can move the a arm to the angle you need without too much muscle.

Call me if you have any questions. 818 227-9533

Boyan

[Joel T.]

Re: Doing 1963 Suspension

Guys,

My thanks to all of you for this great information and advice. I will let you know how I make out!!

Regards,

Joel