Glasin

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  • Michael L.
    Expired
    • August 1, 2005
    • 562

    #1

    Glasin

    I bought some of this fiberglass repair product and on initial use, like it. It is 75% resin and 25% inert filler. You use hardener just like resin and control cure time by making your "pancake" thicker or thinner then adding hardener.

    Comes in a gallon paint can, looks like pink apple sauce when you open it. After hardener is added it thins a touch, spreading it is easier after a try or two, the cool thing is it stays in place on vertical repairs. I made a few practice repairs with it, dries fast, sands OK and is tough. I'm repairing my trans tunnel with it, I'll report back on finished result. A lot less messier than glass mat to work with and seems just as strong. Can also be used to join panels as well as repair holes and cracks. Made by Elite Manufacturing in Wisconsin. I don't sell it or work for them, just an FYI.
  • Jack J.
    Very Frequent User
    • August 1, 2000
    • 422

    #2
    Re: Glasin

    Mike, how much was it per gallon?

    Comment

    • Michael L.
      Expired
      • August 1, 2005
      • 562

      #3
      Re: Glasin

      I paid $66 per gallon and shipping. I sanded some of the cured material that I used to patch some 1/2" holes, looks great. Today, I'll see how it did on bonding in a replacement panel on the trans tunnel. I'll post on that later today.

      Make sure it is used in a well ventilated area.I have not had the pleasure of such stong fumes since I made surfboards as a kid...

      Comment

      • Chuck S.
        Expired
        • April 1, 1992
        • 4668

        #4
        Re: Glasin

        This product sounds like either a glass-filled bonding adhesive, or a glass-filled body filler. It's probably closer to the original type bonding adhesive, which is also made with polyester resin.

        Over the years, I've noted that restorers approach small repairs differently. Some try and short cut the work by using bonding adhesive to fill small holes. This was also done by the factory when the repair was cosmetic (closing unused holes) and not load carrying. Others use resin and mat for all repairs, which is the approach I use.

        I would say be careful of assuming this material is as strong as a mat and resin repair. The long strands in fiberglass mat distribute any load crossing a correctly-made repair over over a much wider area; this increases the repair strength by allowing more of the parent material to accept and resist the load just like the original continuous fiberglass panel.

        The longer glass strands also give the repair the same flexibility as the original fiberglass. If polyester resin is the primary ingredient of Glasin, it may be just as strong (pounds/square inch) at the joint, but will allow less deformation there before fracturing IMO. These principles are illustrated in the fact that original bonded joints (using bonding adhesive) are always lapped in some way...butt joints are also essentially lapped using bonding strips.

        Comment

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