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My friends just finished painting a 53 in laquer and there seems to be confusion as to the proper type of rubbing compound to use. I never dreamed there are different types of compound available, but apparently there is. Even the paint supplier's don't seem to know much about this.
Does anyone know the proper type of compound to use?
Thanks
Bill
I familar with two compounds, red 'rubbing' and white 'polishing'. The red is much more aggresive than the white. Both Dupont products.
The last time I did a lacquer job we wet sanded using 1500 grit paper followed by buffing with the white compound. The finished car was much better than anything GM put out in the early fifties.
Rubbing compound in the round cans are products from a by-gone era...that stuff is made for hand polishing (read aggressive) and it is hard to get a uniform result.
I, and most commercial body shops, use liquid rubbing compound in a plastic bottle (3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound, Catalog 05973). Body shops will use a rotary buffer, but I don't recommend a rotary to anyone except someone in a real hurry. Use a random orbital polisher (Porter Cable 7424?) and a foam pad. Use the proper foam pad for each process...the foam pads are graded for compounding, polishing, glazing, and even waxing. When you have it pretty shiny with the 05973, change to a polishing pad and 3M Perfect-It II Foam Polishing Pad Glaze - Dark, Catalog 05996, depending on your paint color. The last step will be to apply the wax or sealant of your choice.
The above system will polish lacquer or color-sanded urethane to high gloss. I've used it on color-sanded urethane with excellent results. For a lot of good tips on cleaning, detailing, and polishing, you might try the car care forums over on CF (may be under C6 forums). Those young guys may not know a 53 Corvette from a John Deere, but they DO know how to make a car look good.
As Chuckie stated start with the 5973 and finish with the 5933. Or as an alternative start with 3M 6060 and finish with 6062. For the final pass with either use 39003, machine polised off for a very outstanding finish.
Point of caution, I have found that the newer lacquers seem to not be as hard as the old ones. Use caution when buffing. Don't ask me how I know.
By now Bill's probably confused by all the product choices.
Here is a link to 3M's rubbing compounds. You can compare the different products by checking the "Compare" box at the left. All will remove 1200 grit and finer sand scratches, and one will take out 1000 grit and finer. The comparison will show you that some are for "hardest" paint and some are for "moderately hard paint"; which are "most aggressive" and which are only "aggressive", and which are VOC compliant and which are not.
To further confuse the issue, there are many painters (myself included), who do not use rubbing compound at all anymore. I color sand up to 2000 grit by hand, and 4000 grit with my water sander on the big flat panels and then go directly to 3-M Finess-it polish. Polish does not have the size particles that rubbing compound does, and the chances of leaving swirl marks is much less with polish. The Finess-it will leave a finish that is like glass, and stands a lot less chance of leaving swirl marks, or rubbing through on high spots and edges. I polish with a yellow wool pad, followed by a foam pad after the paint has cured for at least a month. Waiting this extended time to polish with the foam pad will assure the highest gloss. On Lacquer, I will go several months before polishing with the foam pad. The Finess-it will not remove scratches greater than 2000 grit in size.
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