1961 E-Brake Switch - Rivet Trigger? - NCRS Discussion Boards

1961 E-Brake Switch - Rivet Trigger?

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  • Mike B.
    Expired
    • November 1, 2004
    • 389

    1961 E-Brake Switch - Rivet Trigger?

    I am finally getting around to mounting the e-brake warning light switch which was in the infamous box of parts that I got with the car. Upon studying the operation, the switch is normally closed with the intention that it is held open when the e- brake lever is fully retracted.

    Problem is there is nothing to hold the switch open. Looking at the AIM there appears to be some type of rivet that also acts as a follower for the brake lever rod to follow. I found a drilled hole in the rod in just about the right place.

    Can anyone provide the specifics or a photo of that rivet that is mounted in the e-brake rod? I presume that it must be somewhat hardened since it will rub on the sleeve when going in and out. It must also have some height since the switch needs about 1/8" of travel to open the circuit. There are no other adjustments available.

    Thank you.
  • Jack H.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • April 1, 1990
    • 9906

    #2
    Re: 1961 E-Brake Switch - Rivet Trigger?

    Switch is normally closed. There's a dowel pin in the end of the PB rod that strikes the switch when the brake is fully released. This opens the switch and cuts the ground path to the warning light.

    Comment

    • Mike B.
      Expired
      • November 1, 2004
      • 389

      #3
      Re: 1961 E-Brake Switch - Rivet Trigger?

      Jack,

      That's exactly the way I figured it worked - stupid simple.

      But I am seeking details on what that pin looks like so I can fabricate something close.

      Thanks,
      Mike

      Comment

      • John M.
        Expired
        • January 1, 1999
        • 1553

        #4
        Re: 1961 E-Brake Switch - Rivet Trigger?

        The pin is available at most of the catalog houses. It is an inverted conical head that sticks up above the shaft. It has a serrated shaft that will stay put once driven in. If you look at your shaft, I am sure that you will see the old sheared off pin that you can drive out with a pin punch. Even when the option was not purchased, the same shaft was used. I am confident that the remnants of the pin are still there if you look closley.

        Regards, John McGraw

        Comment

        • Mike B.
          Expired
          • November 1, 2004
          • 389

          #5
          Re: 1961 E-Brake Switch - Rivet Trigger?

          John,

          Thanks for the tip. I will look for the pin in the popular catalogs.

          I think the entire pin was removed to permit disassembly during restoration but the pin was never returned. I was able to fit a 5/32" drill bit into hole so I am pretty sure it was removed completely..

          I got a good lead on things now thanks to everyone's help.

          Mike

          Comment

          • John M.
            Expired
            • January 1, 1999
            • 1553

            #6
            Re: 1961 E-Brake Switch - Rivet Trigger?

            Mike,

            I misread your original post. I thought you said that you had to drill a hole, not that you had found the hole! My bad. You are correct, the pin has to be removed to dismantle the E-brake.

            Regards, John McGraw

            Comment

            • Richard Geiger

              #7
              Re: 1961 E-Brake Switch - plate?

              Does anyone know if the plate on the switch that the pin pushes up when the brake is released can be relaced? The pin on my E-brake has worn right thru the switch plate. Where would I find this part or can I remove it and weld it up or someting? Slightly off the subject But thank you very much for input.

              Comment

              • Mike B.
                Expired
                • November 1, 2004
                • 389

                #8
                Re: 1961 E-Brake Switch - plate?

                Rich,

                I have the exact same situation. I am afraid to pull too hard on the switch to try to separate it from the mount. Instead I made a new "plate" out of a piece of spring steel from a band commonly used to wrap palletized goods. With a tin snips and some JB weld I slipped the new plate under the remnants of the old (mine broke off rather high). It looks like it will work fine.

                If you get brave and are successful at separating the switch from the mount please let me know as it would affect an more invisible repair.

                Mike

                Comment

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