Engine Pull 1959 2 Questions

[Jimmy J.]

1. Do you have to remove the vertical engine mounts that attach to the frame to get enough forward movement to bring the engine out?

2. Where is the best place to hook the pull chain with the intake off but the heads left on? I will be using a cherry picker to lift it

Thanks in advance Jimmy

[Jim K.]

Re: Engine Pull 1959 2 Questions

Unfortunately for me I have had to do this more times than I care to admit in my 61 (too long of a story). Radiator has to go and distributor but not the mounts (I take the starter and fuel pump off too for more room) Trans stays on, cross member goes, linkage can go, but stays for me. I used an engine balancer that cranks to re-center the load, it really helps to get all the angles right. Thread a bolt through the end of a short lenght of welded chain and into the intake hole front on one side and rear on the opposite side (the whole balance thing again) keep the chains as short as you can to help maintain control... I may have a picture, but it will take a while to post, maybe tomorrow morning? Good luck...
Jim

[Jim K.]

Re: Engine Pull 1959 2 Questions

OK that was easier to find and post, I hope this pic helps. I actually did this 3 times since I have owned the car... alone (not good but necessary...
Jim

[Jimmy J.]

Thanks Jim Great Picture Worth 1000 Words *NM*

[Christopher R.]

Re: Engine Pull 1959 2 Questions

Jim, Thanks for the photo. Some questions. I've got to do this again soon.

1. Why'd you take the exhaust manifolds off? Doesn't seem that they'd be in the way. I understand the fuel pump, distributor, and starter would be in the way.

2. What brand is the "cherry picker"? How do you like it?

3. Why'd you go in from the side, as opposed to the front of the car?

[Jim K.]

Re: Engine Pull 1959 2 Questions

All excelent questions. Let me startby saying this photo was the first install of the first engine I bought from a swap meet 9the car came with none. Shortly after start up (20 minutes) it ate an exhaust valve really bad, in fact, the hiemlich method was ineffective, and it was dead. #2 engine went in but was not detailed and leaked oil from too many places so it was taken out the following winter and freshened up and went back in as #3. So back to the questions:
1. Exhaust manifolds are not in the way, but if you are going to take anyway, then it just makes it easier.
2. Engine hoist is borrowed from a friend along with the load balancer and for free I can't complain. There are many low end units through Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. Just be comfortable that you are trusting the hoist with your $50k car
3. I had to go from the side due to garage size limitations, over the front is better for many reasons including the height of the front .vs. over the fender.

Other comment, I had the car up fairly high on 4 6 ton jack stands, this helps get under for various component removal and allows for a very sharp angle as the engin bay is much shorter than the assembled drive train.

Let me know when you plan on doing this, Chris, I can try to shcedule time to help you.
Jim

[Mike B.]

(Message Deleted by Poster)

Message Deleted by Poster

[Mike B.]

Re: Engine Pull 1959 2 Questions

In Response To: Re: Engine Pull 1959 2 Questions (Mike Bovino)
I put my engine in from the front. I used a good quality engine hoist but the boom had to be extended all the way out which caused a disconcerting bend with the engine dangling over the car. I was very relieved when the engine was finally in place.

Even with the boom all the way out the hoist had to be pushed right up against the front license plate bracket to get the engine all the way in. I used a piece of plywood to protect the plate from getting damaged as the hoist was slid forward. Because I did not have a balancing rig I also had my daughter staged on top of the window cowl helping to guide the rear of the engine downward. We took a second to memorialize the event. Note that her legs were not in the engine compartment during the actual engine movement. But even if you have help available, rent or buy that balancing rig. It is worth every penny and will make the job go a lot easier.

Good luck!
Mike

[Bob Simard]

.Engine Pull 1959

I prefer to remove the right hand motor mount and leave the fuel pump in place. It is much easier to get the motor mount back in with the engine hanging almost in place than it is to install the engine and try to get the @^*@%#$ fuel pump back on with the engine in place.