Electrical problem 1966 SB conv. non air - NCRS Discussion Boards

Electrical problem 1966 SB conv. non air

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  • Bill Richards

    Electrical problem 1966 SB conv. non air

    Recently had my engine rebuilt at a shop. When I droped off the car everything worked, I mean everything. When I pick up the car the mechanic tells me my new battery is bad, it keeps going dead. As I drive home the amp guage is way above where it should be. At home I disconnect the battery and fully charge it to 13 plus volts. Let it set a couple of days off the charger and check the voltage again. 13 plus volts. then I hook up the battery and find that there is a steady 3.5 volt drain. While trying to find the source of the drain I discover that my heater no longer works and there is voltage going into the motor even though the switch is turned off. Then I find that all my wipers do is make one clicking noise when I operate the switch. I did not find the source of the drain.
    What could they have screwed up, there is only a handfull of wires to disconnect. They all seem to be hooked up OK right now. Any ideas?????
    Thanks, Bill
  • Jack H.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • April 1, 1990
    • 9906

    #2
    Technically, there's no such thing...

    as a "3.5V drain". Your battery is delivering current to places where it shouldn't with the ignition switch turned OFF and that loss of current from the battery is creating a voltage drop. You should be expressing stray current flow in amperes (or fractions thereof). All this says you've got items pulling current from the battery when they shouldn't be.

    My hunch is one or more electrical items were connected improperly and I'd advise you to work with the shop that did your engine overhaul. A competent auto electric shop will diagnose the fault areas pretty darn fast. My hunch: problems will be diagnosed in one hour or less of electrical tech time.

    A good shop owner should readily agree to work with you and repair colleterol damage CAUSED by his workmanship. BUT, since HE is the one warranting his work, he has the right to decide whether to expend his shop labor to effect repair or farm the work out and you should get mutual agreement before 'hanging' him with the bill.

    Also, any decent auto electric shop will have an educated opinion if the fault(s) found were related to the engine R&R task as opposed to the natural age of the car. Bottom line, this *&^% happens.

    Sometimes, it has nothing to do with the work performed, but other times it IS the result of that work. So, if you picked an honest engine rebuilder, he should be willing to work with you to resolve the problems to your satisfaction with the cost apportioned according to fault. If that's not the case, then you have to get the repairs made and be prepared to collect your damages legally. For that, you'll need proof of fault.

    In the meantime, keep the battery disconnected until one skilled in the art is ready to diagnose the source(s) of the discharge...

    Comment

    • Bill Richards

      #3
      Re: Technically, there's no such thing...

      Thanks Jack,
      I just solved the problem. They had hooked up the black ground wire, going to the selenoid, to the battery terminal at the selenoid. Laying under the car made it very hard to see behind the other wires.
      Thanks, Bill

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