C2:67 If you really want to be frustrated

[Gerard F.]

try one of these:


Thought I'd try the cheapo way to fix my signal switch.

Here's the broken original in place:

and here's the two side by side:

They look identical, almost. The replacement cam is more cheaply made and the little spring strips don't fit as well as on the original.

Finally got the cam on the old switch, even soldered and shrink wrapped the connections.


Put everything back together and guess what? No brake lights, no signal lights, no cancelling for the left turn. After 2 hours of electrical troubleshooting and taking it on and off again, I gave up frustrated.

But luckily I had one of these:


Found you had to take the connector off the old and new, to remove the old and thread the new wiring down the column. Needed to lower the steering column and remove the clip-on wire protector on the column:


Here's the original harness connector with the new wiring:

The little individual connectors come out of the harness connector fairly easy with a small screwdriver prying on the sides of the connector.

Here's the replacement in place:

Took two hours and with everything reassembled, the replacement switch works just fine, just like the original when new.

Moral of the story: Don't try to repair a 67 signal switch, just get a replacement.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Gene M.]

Re: C2:67 If you really want to be frustrated

Jerry,
You did all that work and the harness wire colors are not correct. Why did you not switch the entire harness? The harness is visible under the dash to a good judge.

[Gerard F.]

You're kidding of course

Gene,

Couldn't care less about the stripes instead of solid on the wires, as long as it works. Actually, the switch is the wrong color, but the harness is just fine.

I think I'm now at 100% ops on my driver.

62 today

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Gene M.]

Re: You're kidding of course

I had a similar problem with my 67. The little black plastic piece that secures the push pull knob for the 4 ways broke. I removed the switch assembly from a new replacement and reinstalled it on my original assembly. Drilling out the small rivets and replaced them with #2 screws and nuts to reassemble. My interest was in keeping the original harness because of the coloring differences on the replacement not being the same as the original. Most all harness wiring colors on replacements or repro's is different from originals and judges will pick up on this. Driver cars this is of no concern and makes repairs much simpler. Thank you for sharing your experience. I enjoy your technical postings.

[Gerard F.]

Re: You're kidding of course

Gene,

You must be a lot like me. I'd much rather repair or refinish an original part than to replace it with a repro. I did try the repair of the signal switch first, but the gypo cam just wouldn't get along with the rest of the switch. I even soldered the connections on.

Have my car out today and the repro switch works just great, just like the original when new. Keep forgetting that I don't have to hold the lever down anymore on a left turn.

But I saved my original switch intact instead of cutting it off at the harness connector like the service manual says. One of these days it might be back on the car. Wish I could find a wiring diagram of the switch so I can bench test it.

Jerry Fuccillo