I bought a 68 coupe project last summer, serial #194378S428017, red on red,with a big block hood(not original)and a GM replacement 327 block. 4 speed is original tranny and everything else is there but "old". The frame is in fair-good condition but the windshield pillars are showing some rust (the serial # plate is actually rusted thru on the bottom end). Body appears original and fairly good, brakes are bad but rotors good, glass is original, only things that are not original are the hood and the block (intake & exhaust numbers match up)and the gas tank. I haven't pulled the tank but the odds are really against finding the build sheet on top. First, how can I tell if this was a 300 HP or 350 HP 327? Second, is this car worth spending the extra on to do a correct restoration or would I be better off to find a block to match the hood, buy reproduction and replacement parts and build a fast and fun driver? I know this is an objective question, but I live in an area where there aren't alot of corvette people (just me) and I would like some opinions. Thanks!!
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Re: bought it, now what do i do with it?
Do what feels good to you, Jeff.
Almost no car in the condition you describe is "worth" a correct restoration in a financial sense. You will spend more than the car is worth in the end. Never expect to make money on these things anyway. The exception might be an extremely rare car like a documented L-88.
One word of caution: Even for the fun driver idea, that rusty windshield area might stop you cold in terms of the cost to fix.
My advice is to decide what you want, scope out the costs to make this car what you want, and then decide whether you want to do the project or not. It is almost always cheaper to buy a car already in the condition you want. This is the flip side of the rule that you never get your money back out of a restoration. Doing restoration yourself does mean that you know everyting about the car when you are done.
Have Fun,
- Wayne -
Re: bought it, now what do i do with it?
Jeff,
Everything Wayne said is on the mark.
I believe that the instant the unrestored average car requires a replacement block, it is relegated to the fun/driver category from a financial standpoint. If you have a surplus of cash you want to get rid of, restoring this car would be the perfect way to do it, but I don't recommend it. The windshield frame rust is a definite concern, but as long as its structurally sound (the windshield frame can't be moved by hand or the rake doesn't increase while driving ), I would have fun driving the car, join the NCRS, hang out here on NDB, and after you know these cars, go shopping again for an original restoreable or restored car.
A restoration costs about the same for a average car as it does a big block, optioned car, so if you can find one, they are your best value. The good news is the value of your car will not depreciate (assuming your windshield doesn't fall over), and depending on how long you keep it, may actually appreciate.
I hope you got a real good price for the car; generally the value of an NOM (non original motor) car takes a significant hit. Example: A '69 with 427 3X2 was worth about $28K a few years back; with an NOM that car's value was reduced about $10K. Value loss for your car would, of course, be much less.
Start your education; Join the NCRS. And keep waving!
Chuck SangerhausenComment
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Re: bought it, now what do i do with it?
Jeff, Restoring a 68 is tough one. Car has MANY one of a kind ,1st year parts that are very hard to find. It's like restoring an early 63. I would get the car in drivable condition, and enjoy it awile.You said you had the original intake manifold(right date) The intake man. on a 350hp car is alluminum. 300 hp intakes are cast,painted. Also, you can remove the gas filler bezzel , rubber surround and look to see if the build sheet is there( flash lite and mirror helps)
Texas Chapter NCRSComment
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Re: bought it, now what do i do with it?
What kind of cost/effort is involved with fixing the cage? Just curious... STW, MikeComment
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Re: bought it, now what do i do with it?
Bob; VetteVues fact book shows the 68 as having the same cast iron intake manifold on both the 300 HP and the 350 HP. The NCRS Judging Manual lists just one casting # for both models. I believe this is unique for the 68. My car has the aluminum radiator with an overflow tank. I believe this is also unique for the 350 HP. The tach is faded and the beginning of the redline is undecernable but the yellow starts at 5000. Anybody know of any other features that would seperate the 350HP from the 300 HP?????Comment
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Re: Right ,Jeff!
Sorry Jeff for the mis-information on the intake, someone stole my 68-69 manual at the Orlando meet. That overflow could be the answer (about the attachments, holes in the inner fender etc.) Don't have chrome valve covers do you?(350).What about the RC-26,15lb radiator cap(350).I would doubt that someone would change to an overflow system from the std." cap on the radiator" system. Another thing you might check is the rear end ratio. 300 hp had a std.3.36-1 ratio for a 4-speed. The other Economy ratio was a 3.08-1. The 350 hp came with the same 3.36 std. ratio, but, also you could get a std. 3.70 ratio. You could also get an optional 3.55 or 4.11 on the 350 not the 300.(4-speeds)
Texas Chapter NCRSComment
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Good Question, Mike
Mike,
I was really just repeating a warning I have heard before, that the windshield support requires tremendous effort and/or money to fix. Never heard anyone put a dollar figure to it.
Anyone care to?
- WayneComment
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Re: Pillar replacement cost
Hi people Just a response on approximate cost of the pillar replacement.I just finished my 71 with the same original symptoms as your 68 (rust on lower section of VIN tag) and afterall was said and done it ran about 700.00. That was removing the entire frame from the T-Top intersection to the bottom of the posts and replacing it with a good donor. Fortunately the Birdcage itself was not damaged!! or it will cost at least double and the nightmare would probably continue into the frame!!I did not have to replace the windshield (Lucky removal!!) I did replace one upper corner trim piece and all the obvious weatherstriping. I was fortunate to have a welder and a very good friend who welds for a living. My advice to you before you venture is to remove the kick panels and inspect the lower birdcage and #2 mount areas. If these are rotted hold on to your wallet because its going to cost a bunch ($2500 was a ballpark estimate from a local vette shop if the work was needed) Good luck no matter what you choose!Comment
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