68 key question

[Kurt B.]

I know that the keys had numbers stamped onto the knockouts.
How was that code arrived at.
I have the correct keys but no numbers stamped on them.
Is there a way to know what the numbers should be and do I have them stamped onto my existing keys or do I buy new keys with numbers stamped onto them and how do I know the numbers I get will be correct.
I don't understand how a judge would know if the numbers are right or wrong.
What stops someone from just making up a code and stamping it on the keys?
Are the numbers judged or just the shape and fit/functionality of the keys?
Thank you,
Kurt

[Jim T.]

Re: 68 key question

The key code on the knockout can be taken to a locksmith and using the code can cut you a new key. The key cutting code/ID is not stamped on the key, only the knockout. I don't know if a locksmith can give you the code to have stamped on new keys from your usable key, a call to a locksmith, or visit will tell you.

[John H.]

Re: 68 key question

Kurt -

They keys need code numbers stamped on them for full credit, but nobody can tell if they're the codes that match the lock cylinders. The "real" codes are stamped on the barrel of each lock cylinder, none of which are visible without removing the cylinder from the lock assembly. Can you "make up" your own codes to be stamped on the keys? Yes.

[Kurt B.]

Re: 68 key question

Let me ask this another way:
Can a locksmith "read" my keys somehow to know what the code should be or tell what the code is that is stamped on the lock cylinder wihtout removing or seeing the actual lock?
I should have odne this research before I reassembled my doors and had the car painted but I didn't think of it.
Thanks all for your input and help with this ,
Kurt

[Dick W.]

Re: 68 key question

Send'u to Pat Kraus, whose phone # you will find in the archives, or Peter Lindal who you will find listed in the user profiles. Either can take care of your request.

[Jack H.]

Yes...but few will...

There are PAGES of code in the Briggs & Stratton (now Strat-Tech) look up table. The better locksmiths have microfiche of the code tables. Each 4-digit code sequence translates to a 'cut sequence'. Prior to 1967, the code sequences were all 40-numerics with four discrete length tumblers or wafers in the lock barrel. In 1966, the number of lock permutations increased by adding a 5th tumbler/wafer size AND the keyway of the lock was 'coded' to accept a certain key blank and reject others. At this time, the 4-digit code sequence changed to introduce an alpha character.

In the information section of the '63 Corvette Shop Manual and several of the Chassis Service Manuals, there's a discussion about keys with a 'template' for you to lay your key onto to manually generate the cut sequence (e.g. 2-3-2-1-2-4) which equates to what specific tumbler/wafer is in what position in the lock barrel.

Once you have the cut sequence, it's a matter of due diligence to do a reverse table lookup in the Briggs coding table to translate that to the original key code (code=8109 for the example cut sequence given). Can a judge determine if the code sequence on your key is correct? NO WAY! Even an experienced locksmith has to refer to the code table.

BUT, one with reasonable experience can spot a 'ringer'... By that I mean an early lock that's been re-keyed and the locksmith accidentally used a #5 tumbler/wafer in it (didn't exist prior to 1967!). The #5 wafer generates the deepest cut and on early key blanks (before they changed the blank in '67 to lay in the coded keyway feature) the #5 cut actually 'eats' into the key's existing keyway which is visually obvious...once you get some experience.

Also, if the pre-67 key is coded with a 4-place alphanumeric vs. numeric only sequence, that's another 'opps'...

Soooo, what you need is a locksmith who'll take your lock cylinder, insure there are no #5 wafers used, generate the cut sequence and do the reverse table lookup to obtain the factory original code for that particular sequence.

There used to be a good ole boy near me who'd do the reverse table lookup for $5 if you gave him the business of cutting keys via code AND recoding your locks.

[Peter L.]

Re: 68 key question

Kurt - I just checked the 1968-69 Corvette TIM&JG and the judging info on keys is pretty brief and if one critically looks at it, it's my guess that original keys might not pass muster. "Keys" are on page 17.

68-69 TIM&JG sentence: "1968 had an hex-head key coded C for the ignition and doors.;."

COMMENT: The original 1968 key was in fact a C keyway key but it had an octagon head, nobody has a hex-head key.

68-69 TIM&JG sentence: "an oval head key coded D operated the glovebox and spare tire lock."

COMMENT: While the 1968 key is in fact a D keyway key, GM for years has called the key head of the original keys "round." I myself would call it a 3-leafed clover but they didn't ask me. The identification of the 1968 D key as being an "oval head key" is somewhat confusing because 2 sentences later the 1969 H key is described as "the oval head H key and we all know the original 1969 keys has a different key head configuration than the original 1968 keys.

A good 1968 judge will most likely know that the KEY NUMBERs as stamped on the KNOCK OUT of the octagon head "C" KEY should be from 0N00 to 9N99 or 0P00 to 9P99 and the KNOCK OUT of the "round" head "D" key should be from 0R00 to 9R99 or 0T00 to 9T99.

As pointed out, a judge most likely won't be able to determine if the KEY NUMBERs stamped on the KO are the cuts on the key, i.e. the KEY CODE.

As also pointed out, if you want the "correct" KEY NUMBERs, you'll have to pull the ignition lock cylinder for the "C" key KEY NUMBER, and glovebox lock cylinder for the "D" key KEY NUMBER. Please note that this will be the case if the ignition and glovebox lock cylinders are "originals" Generally, replacement lock cylinders do not have the KEY NUMBER stamped on them.

The other option mentioned is to work backwards from a good operating key and a good locksmith can usually "nail" the KEY NUMBER but you never know, so it's always best to work from the KEY NUMBERs.

And it looks like we have a bit of work to do on tarting up the "Keys" section of the 1968-69 Corvette TIM&JG or else somebody should look into making hex-head keys.

This is a great hobby. Have fun, Pete

[Kurt B.]

Re: 68 key question

Can I remove the ignition lock without removing the dash.
I don't recall as it has been soooo many years since I did that.
The glove box lock will be easy to remove I assume.
That would give me both codes,,,,,correct?
Kurt

PS: I just had a memory flashback.
Pete rekeyed my spare tire lock.

[Peter L.]

Re: 68 key question flashback!!!!!!!!!

Kurt - I just had one too. That was the spare tire lock I had to pick, after several lock shops in your town couldn't. Piece of cake. We then rekey the spare tire lock to a working key, so unfortunately we didn't determine the KEY NUMBER.

The ignition key lock cylinder is easily removed using a paper clip and turning the lock cylinder with the key in place to the ACC position and inseting thepaper clip end in to the hole and pushing in and then turning the key a bt more in the counter clockwise direction and the lock cylinder should come out. The KEY NUMBER should be stamped on the side of the cylinder if it an original lock cylinder. That will cover the "C" key.

For the "D" key KEY NUMBER remove the compartment lock cylinder and check it for a KEY NUMBER.

Pete

[Dick W.]

Re: 68 key question

Yer comments are duly noted Peter

[Peter L.]

Re: 68 key question

Papa Smurf - I had the comments on a disk and then misplaced it and wouldn't you know where I found it.:) Pete