C3 68 Tank Sticker

[Michael M.]

I am in the middle of a rear suspension rebuild. The disassembly is complete. Occasionally, in the past my gas tank would leak fuel and so I also decided to drop the tank. Much to my surprise, the tank sticker is still glued to the top of the tank. It has 39 years of dirt, oil and grime and appears to be in fragile condition. I brushed off some of the dirt and I could barely read some, but not all, of the information. Any advice on what I should do. My car is a big block, and so having this piece of documentation could be important if I ever sell the car.

There is a glob of glue still holding the upper part of the sticker to the tank. Is there anything I can use to release the glue? Does anyone have a reference for an individual that can restore these tank stickers?

BTW, for those interested, the straps holding the tank had anti-squeak material somewhere between a fiber and fabric. Kind of like felt but not quite. They were held to the straps by the use of some type of black glue. If any one desires, I can take pictures. I don't believe that this anti-squeak material is available and a friend of mine opines that it is because the material contained asbestos (which would make sense since it was holding up the gas tank). I do not believe this tank has ever been out of the car before.

Thanks for any replies.

[Drew P.]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

Hello Michael,
I would replace the old gas tank. You told us that gas a leak. Time to install a new gas tank.
The build sheet on the old tank. Take photo's of all the information to show what is left after 39 years.
I have a few questions about the build sheet? What is the dealer zone number and dealer number on the upper right corner of the sheet. What is the large had written number on the right side of the sheet? What are the other options are listed on the sheet? What is the Corvette VIN?
Thank you,
Drew Papsun

[Michael M.]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

Drew, the upper right portion of the sticker is in the worst shape. I can make out the build date which is listed as 11/30/67 (which was a Thursday). The sticker is still thick with grime and is fairly well oil soaked. I will have to work on it some more. As far as the VIN itself, it is in the mid 19,000s but I am not comfortable releasing such specific information.

[Jim T.]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

Michael you will find other posts in the archives on what and what not to do in removing your 69's tank sticker. One procedure I think I remember is using new single edge razor blades and patiently, slowly, and carefully put the razor's edge on the tank to remove the glue holding the paper to the tank. Cleaning the dirt/crud off the paper is a gentle sweeping with a very soft brush. You may find a thick round one in your wife's cosmetics. However those brushes are really soft and may not remove the build up. Have you looked behind the radio or between the tach and speedometer for a build sheet? I found the build sheet for my 68 behind the radio and the build sheet for my 70 behind the tack. What is an occasional leak? Your original gas tank should use a vented gas cap. If your occasional leak was with a full tank of gas, the leak could of been a bad gasket between the filler neck and the tank, the gaskets are cork and the filler neck bolts can be tightened to much ruining the sealing ability of the cork gasket.

[Michael M.]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

Jim, yes the leak was usually when the tank was full or near full. I will inspect the tank for pinholes at the top but it may have been the filler neck gasket. I have had the dash out of my car and so there is no other build sheet.

I did go to the archives first, before posting here, but I didn't see anything regarding how to remove the sticker. There was a reference to using infrared photography to bring out the printing on the document. Also a reference was made to using lighter fluid to release the glue, but there was no mention as to whether this is advised or not and the expected results.

Can you shed any light? I feel fortunate to have found the document but it is equally frustrating that I can't satisfactorily clean it so it is legible to the naked eye. I guess I'll keep trying with a soft britle brush and see what I can do. Thanks.

[ed styczynski]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

Michael, If you need to replace the tank just leave the sticker where it is and just cut the part out that the sticker is glued on.

[Anthony S.]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

Mike,

Congrats on finding the build sheet / tank sticker. Now your career as an archeologist begins.........

Here's how I removed mine:

After I cleaned my tank sticker with a paint brush (do not use compressed air), I was able to lift 99% of what was on my tank using a large sheet of sticky laminate paper (availabe @ any office supply store).

Simply rub the paper onto the tank sticker & continually attemt to lift the sheet. Use a razor blade to "help" any parts that are directly stuck to the glue. With some patience, you should be able to get the whole thing. Then use a second sheet to laminate the back side & protect the sheet.

Once off, I scanned it & then put a copy on my new tank prior to installation.

p.s........The order date & VIN seem off. My order date on my '68 was 1-12-68 & the car was built at the end of January, the VIN is under 10,000.

Here's mine.....

Good luck,

Anhtony

[Michael M.]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

Anthony, thanks for the info. I re-checked the VIN and you are correct. I mis-read my vin # and it is in the mid 7000's (I was going from memory and was remembering 19467, which is not the VIN). I guess that better jives with a November 30, 1967 build date.

I'll try what you suggest, I am hoping that once the sheet dries out a little the ink will become more legible.

[Michael M.]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

That's what I was thinking of doing. A hacksaw or a good pair of tin snips should do. I planned on a getting a new reproduction tank from Quanta. I am going to hunt for the strap anti-squeak material and see if I can find something close.

[Kent K.]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

Mike,

I've had my '69 tank with build sheet out of the car for over 3 months allowing the paper to dry out. During this span, I have tried several times to brush it with a new soft paint brush and dry it further carefully with a heat gun from a distance. There remains solid brown crud on the upper right and right side of the sheet. With patience, I'll eventually get it clean enough to read. (See my profile for my '69 options.)

I would shy away from the clear sticky plastic sheet without thoroughly investigating document preservation techniques used by the experts. If at worst, I will capture part of the tanks metal with the build sheet, probably using several models of tin snips (for right, left hand and straight cuts).

Whatever you do, store it in an acid free envelope with acid free stiff cardboard on both sides. Framing shops usually have the correct materials for safe keeping such items.

Any expert advice is appreciated from those who passed here before.

Kent #6201

PS: Lousy photo of my tank sticker taken with very little light and computer enhanced for readability.

[Steve Wallach]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

Putting it between copy / typing paper, and putting it in a heavy book, will pull moisture / oil / gas out of the paper. Be ware, without the dirt and oil, the sheet may become more fragile. Mine became more readable, but also seems more fragile now that it is much dryer.

Cheers,

Steve

[Michael M.]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

Thanks. We'll see how it turns out. I can make out some of the wording but I don't think it would ever show up on a photograph. There is one spot where the glob of glue is still holding the paper, if I can somehow release the glue, I believe I can clean it up. It is physically all there.

[Steve Wallach]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

Scanning it and then playing around with the contrast will help to make it readible. Be careful, the ink on the paper is very fragile, and brushing the dirt off can ultimately remove the ink also.

Steve

[Terry M.]

Re: C3 68 Tank Sticker

If one can get the paper off the tank a photo copy machine at various contrast settings can also sometimes reveal "hidden" text.

Be careful of entombing it in plastic. It is important to use the right kind of plastic, and one should be aware that once that is done there is no going back. In general conservationists are reluctant to do anything to a document that is not reversible. The best long term storage is between acid-free paper and stored at a steady 65 degrees F with constant moderate humidity. All paper is made using acids and will eventually deteriorate. The best one can hope to do is delay that deterioration as much as possible.

One might wish to check this site for products and suggestions:

http://www.archivalsuppliers.com

[Kent K.]

PS to my earlier post

Mike,

DO NOT USE LIGHTER FLUID...!!! This really bothered me but I forgot to mention it in my previous response. Research document restoration thoroughly ( ) prior to doing anything that might cause any harm to the build sheet.

Kent #6201