I have a "clunk" where the yoke goes into the transmission. It's loose and can be "jiggled" by hand. Also, when I accelerate and decelerate I get that "cluck" noise. Can the rear bearing in the transmission be removed without taking the transmission out? What is the cost for the parts and approximate amount of time to change this. Most importantly, is this what is wrong? Thank you, I greatly appreciate the advice/input.
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Re: C2 Transmission
Is the transmission still in the car? If it is, it is likely that the u-joint is bad - a cheap fix at $10 + labor. If not, it could be anything... bearings, shafts, gears, all of the above. Is the trnsmission a Borg Warner, a GM Muncie, or a GM automatic? How many miles on it? Has it ever been overhauled? - Dave -
Re: C2 Transmission
Thank you! The muncie is still in the car! It does not feel like a ujoint though. It is not the original muncie that was in the car, so I don't know the miles on it. If it is in that back part of the transmission can it be fixed without taking the transmission out?Comment
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What year C2 Transmission ?
Not in my 66 - which has an integral welded crossmember under the transmission. Pull the yoke and check the contact surface. If it is smooth, you are luck - because it's not cheap (about $125). The bronze bushing it runs on is not expensive, but that may not be the problem. I have a friend in Moline, Illinois, who rebuilds my transmissions for about $100 plus parts. I have three of them to support my abusive habits (I love to powershift), the original (in a bag), a 64 that I bought complete from my friend 2 years ago for $750 (which is in the car), and a spare that I got for $125 and he rebuilt for $120. I keep the spare in a shipping container to support my road trip excesses, but I haven't had to ship it in the last twelve years. Usually it's the synchronizers, seals, and roller bearings that need replacing. I like the transmission to be quiet, clean, and available for abuse on demand, so I keep spare parts on hand. - DaveComment
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Re: C2 Transmission
John-----
You may have a driveshaft u-joint problem as Dave has mentioned. That would be the most common cause of what you describe. To check, though, you'll need to remove the driveshaft. This is not a very difficult job, at all.
Once the driveshaft is out, you can easily check the rear yoke. Rotate it gently back and forth. There should not be looseness or play with respect to its fit on the output shaft splines. If there is, you may need a new yoke. The yoke for 63-70 Muncie transmissions is GM #3868728, but this part GM lists for $179.87. If you need one, you may do better on price through a Spicer or other driveline shop. The tailshaft bushing, WHICH CANNOT BE REPLACED WITHOUT TRANSMISSION REMOVEL AND PARTIAL DIASSEMBLY, is GM #6260048 which GM lists for $2.77/each.
If, by chance, your car is equipped with a 71-74 Muncie, then none of the above part numbers apply.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: C2 Transmission
I'm not sure I understand what you mean when you say you "have a clunk where the yoke goes into the transmission". The clunk on acceleration and deceleration sounds familiar - are you sure the torque snubber isn't loose?Comment
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Probably not the gearbox
In addition to the drive shaft and half shaft joints, looks at the rubber biscuits that are part of the front diff mount. They deteriorate over time especially if there has ever been a pinion seal leak, which is a relatively common problem. If the biscuits are deteriorated the diff can rock up and down everytime the input torque is reversed and cause a "clunk" type noise. You can check for play by levering both ways with a pry bad between the diff housing and the mounting bracket.Comment
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