Car paint

[Bob I.]

Looking for information to help make a decision when I have my 70 repainted in it's orginal color cortez silver

[Terry D.]

What Information? *NM*

[Bob I.]

Re: Car paint

Type of paint opitions and any questions to ask a paint shop to help me obtain a quality
paint job

[Travis Citrino]

Re: Car paint

I found this maybe it'll help ya!

1970 Corvette Exterior Color Choices
CODE EXTERIOR
972 Classic White
974 Monza Red
975 Marlboro Maroon
976 Mulsanne Blue
979 Bridgehampton Blue
982 Donnybrooke Green
984 Daytona Yellow
986 Cortez Silver
991 Ontario Orange
992 Laguna Gray
993 Corvette Bronze

They are chevy codes maybe paintshop can get or duplicate for you.

[Terry D.]

Re: Car paint

Bob

Seems to me paint options are a personal choice. For example I like the old fashioned lacquer paint, some like base coat clear coat better. You should maybe go to some car shows and see the difference in the types of paint jobs available then decide for yourself which is best suited to your needs. You never said whether you are painting the car to be a daily driver, show car, or going for the NCRS awards.

As for questions to ask a paint shop, the best question would be to see references, not names but actually see the cars they have painted. Talk to the owners of these cars and see if any problems arose during the job.

If you are looking for a quick answer, I don't think you will find it here.
Terry

[Chuck R.]

Re: Go to your local paint jobber for info

They will be able to show you the differences in both application as well as cost differences.

Then I would find a top shelf body shop and see if they will walk you through the process of finish applications and appearances.

Between laquer, base coat/clear coat and single stage urethanes you have alot of flexiblity and price ranges at your disposal.

Chuck

[Chuck S.]

Re: Car paint

Bob, there is tons of discussion, debate, and argument in the archives about the pros and cons of paint choices. It appears most of us don't have much appetite for going over old ground...again.

The reason it's a "personal" decision is that each individual has to decide if he's going to compromise slightly on originality for long term durability and low maintenance, or opt for uncompromising originality that sacrifices durability.

If you attend an NCRS event where the paint training class is offered, I recommend you attend it; it'll help you make the decision. The class is ususlly jointly presented by Tom Ames, painter and owner of a commercial body repair business, and a local DuPont tech representative. The message has been consistent since at least 2000: acrylic lacquer has been emasculated by EPA regs; it is a shadow of its old formulation.

[Dick W.]

Re: Car paint

One of the biggest problems that no one has even mentioned is color match. None of the mixing colors of the '50's, '60's, '70's, and even the '80's are available. Every thing is now offset colors, some close, some not so close. Go with a jobber that can accurately tint your paint and offers the correct size metalic particles.

[Peter B.]

Re: Car paint

Chuck, Thanks for your post. I'm new to the NCRS and it's helped me to make a decision on the re-paint of my 67 Coupe. I've been thru the Archives and there's a huge volume of material on paint. The EPA regs have made the use of Acrylic Lacquer a poor choice, and perhaps only for a car that's displayed and not driven. I drive mine and need a durable finish. Yet the JG states that paint must be Acrylic Lacquer and the obvious use of any other coating system will result in full deduction of points. It seems to me that the judging standard needs to be amended to acknowledge the changes to the original paint formula. Perhaps owners could categorize their cars as either drivers or museum pieces. Judging based upon those categories could allow for differing paint types as long as the color is accurate. At the very least, if Acrylic must be used for full points, make the penalty for other paint types something less than a full deduct. The Builders meant for these cars to be driven, they continually improved power and handling to do that. If urethane had been available "back in the day" they would have used it.

I'm taking the time required to make sure that every other aspect of my car is restored to original condition. The paint will be the one exception. It's going to be the best possible match to the original color, but it won't be Acrylic Lacquer. Guess I'll just have to make up some of those deduct points by driving to the judging. Thanks again for your insight, I'll definitely attend one of the paint training classes. Pete

[Dick W.]

Re: Car paint

Go to the link provided. Read the guidelines. No where does it say it has to be painted in lacquer. Just has to APPEAR as lacquer. There cars painted with single stage and two stage paints when properly done will meet this guideline. Just takes homework, finding a painter that will work with you, and a lot of patience.

https://www.ncrs.org/ncc/infofolder/paintguide.html

[Chuck S.]

Re: Car paint

NCRS has already addressed this problem in a reasonable manner IMO...proper judging of exterior paint DOES NOT REQUIRE that the paint BE acrylic lacquer, ONLY that it APPEAR as acrylic lacquer.

The paint school will give you some ideas on how to make modern paint look like acylic lacquer; e.g. shoot the jambs, ledges, and other originally unpolished areas with flattening agent in to make urethane "appear" as unpolished lacquer. Of course, you'll have to know how unpolished lacquer looks to get the right amount of flattening, and it's not as much some people think. Results vary according to the painter's skill at being deceptive.

Original lacquer should also have had some fine orange peel left, and that, in my opinion, will be the toughest part to get exactly correct...catalyzed urethane sprayed with HVLP guns is more likely to have large orange peel if there is any. However, most judged cars I have seen have flawless finishes without orange peel, and they seem to score OK...so, maybe you only need to worry about the jambs, etc.

[Peter B.]

Re: Car paint

Chuck and Dick...Thank you for the advice and guidance, it's very much appreciated. Pete

[Bill S.]

Re: Car paint

which blue in 70 was the saphire blue with a green tint in the sun? i had a 70 that color but back then it was blue turquois and nobody cared about the correct name but it sure was stunning on a bright sunny day like the day i first saw it and talked the owner into selling it a month or two later.

[Chuck S.]

Re: Car paint

Bill, there were only two Corvette blues in 1970...Mulsanne Blue, which is like a medium metallic blue; and Bridgehampton Blue, which is like a darker royal blue.

There was a 70 Chevrolet color that sounds similar to your description, but it was not standard on Corvettes...see the color chips at the link below; Misty Turquoise, GM code 34, PPG code 2168. Note that Chevrolet colors used on Corvettes, besides those specifically so identified, are marked with an asterik.

Back in those days, I have heard you could get other GM colors on an ordered car, but I haven't seen it in judging. I have seen a black 72 with a trim plate that was stamped SPEC in the color code space. Maybe you had a more special Corvette than you knew.

[Bill S.]

Re: Car paint

the green only came out when is was in very bright cloudless sunlight. it was original paint in 78 and had 22k when i bought it.