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I pulled the plugs on my '64 the other day and found that one of them was wet and oily. What is the most likely source of the problem? Rings? Bad gasket? How long can I drive it without doing permanent damage? I don't want to pull the engine now that the nice weather is finally here.
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Re: Engine Problem
#1 check you plug wire with a ohm meter to see if it is open or very high resistance, replace if needed #2 replace plug with one that is 1 or 2 steps hotter than the one you are using if the plug wire is ok. enjoy your ride this summer! -
Re: Engine Problem
I agree with motorman, and add that you might also use an extended tip plug to reduce fouling - for example an AC44s instead of an AC44. Is there a blue cloud on startup, or when you punch the throttle? If yes you are burning oil (see previous suggestions). If no, you may (just) be in need of a carb rebuild. Some carbs cause fouling on the last cylinder with gas that leaks into the manifold and runs downhill to the rear of the manifold (if that is the plug that is fouled). - DaveComment
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Re: Engine Problem
be careful using extended tip plugs in older corvettes that have a dome on the pistons as it will hit the plug if you do not index the plug, having the ground electrode at 9/12/3 oclock position.Comment
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Re: Engine Problem
Mark-----
The other responders have provided good advice. I'll just add that a problem like you describe is fairly common on small block Chevrolet engines. I really don't think that the problem will cause any permanent damage whatsoever to the engine. Try the other suggestions which can be fairly easily implemented. If they don't resolve the problem, look into more serious engine work this winter.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Precombustion chamber
Mark NAPA used to sell, and probably still does, a screw-in extender designed for cyl;inders that oil excessively. It is basically a pre-combustion chamber. Assuming you follow the other advice in this thread (all very good), this is a simple last resort quick-fix that works. You screw it into the spark plug hole and then the plug into the device. I've run engines that oil foul for as many as 20,000 miles using these things. They work! Your oil consumption will still remain high but the plugs will go a lot longer before they foul.
VarooomComment
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Re: Precombustion chamber
Mark, all good advice, just do a quick check of the following, 1- remove plug wire and check for cracks,burns, loose connections both ends, check top of cap where wire goes in and cap inside terminal contactor w/rotor connection.If you can use an ohm meter check for continuity of the wire and resistance from end to end. 2- are your plugs new? What heat range are you using, check the gap, cracked plug etc., loose plug wire boot or connection both ends or wire. 3- does car smoke on that bank where the bad plug was found? If so how long, just overnight sitting or underway. Overnight only might be a guide seal problem. Underway ooh, whatever I would recommend you run a compression test and check against all other cyclinders before ripping into engine. 4- You might take this time to pull your valve covers and check your valve train assy. p/s sides. Never hurts to check everything easy first. 5-When was your last tune up? And who does them, they should have noticed the plug unless this is recent.Lots of times after a tune up people get careless and burn up things like wires.Especially if they have header tubed exhaust pipes. 6- Just do the simnple little things listed by all the threads and you'll come to a conclusion and find out if you have a bad cyclinder.If you have an older engine it could be anything, but if normally healthy and this just popped up follow the listed treads.grr#33570Comment
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Re: Engine Problem
Aside from the plug wire mentioned in another response, the simplest way to determine the cause of the problem is a compression check. A better way is a cylinder drop test. Internally, there are two sources of the problem you are having: a broken or stuck oil control ring or worn valve guides. Make sure when you do the compression test the carburetor butterflies are wide open so that you will get the highest value. There are two items to look for, proper cylinder pressure (see technical manual 135-150 psi) and consistency among cylinders. If the pressure is low in this or any cylinder, squirt several shots of 30 weight oil into the cylinder and immediately repeat the test. If the pressure increases considerably, the problem is a ring. If not, the problem is either valve guides or a burnt valve. Usually a burnt valve won't result in a oiling problem. In a cylinder drop test, the cylinder is pressurized with a test rig equipped with a gauge. There is a spec for how many psi a cylinder should lose in a given period of time. Any good repair shop or dealership (if you can afford them) can do this test. The response on extended tip plugs and indexing is good advice. Don't go there. Small block Chevys are famous for wearing out valve guides because of the geometry between the rocker arm and valve stem. This results in a sideways force on the stem as the valve is depressed. Competion Cams makes a roller tip rocker are that rolls over the stem instead of sliding and virtually eliminates this problem. They are about 140.00 and are well worth it.Comment
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