Oil pan gasket leakage

[Gary #41345]

I've had a small leak for some time now from my oil pan area and valve cover area that from what I read common for C-2's. I switched to the rubber (non leak) gasket and still got a leak...larger in fact?? Is there a torque requirement for these bolts...valve covers as well?

[Verle R.]

Re: Oil pan gasket leakage

Gary,

What engine and valve covers do you have?

Verle

[Joe L.]

Re: Oil pan gasket leakage

Gary-----

If you're talking about the 1 piece oil pan gasket, there is usually a small instruction sheet included with the gasket which provides torque specifications.

Also, the rubber gasket requires the application of a small bead of silicone RTV at the "corners" of the gasket. Again, instructions for such application are included with the gasket.

[Chuck R.]

Re: Oil pan gasket leakage

Hi Gary.

Everything that has a bolt on these cars has a torque value.

The absolute worse thing that can happen to tin work on an engine is to crank down on the bolts as it causes the tin to pucker down into the gasket squashing the gaskets and creating a non uniform seal across the spans between each bolt.

Valve covers, oil pans and timing covers are so thin that it's very easy to do especially with a rachet. I always use a ratchet until the bolt just starts to snug, then I switch over to the torque wrench and even then, I'll torque up the bolts in two stages.

If the covers aren't reinforced or are missing the reinforcement tabs, your asking for trouble.

Covers that have been "cranked" on numerous times are probably going to be trouble makers.

You'll have to turn covers over on a solid (and flat) surface and with the butt end of a small socket or flat stock, peen then back into true with light ball peen hammer.

Chuck

[Joe L.]

Re: Oil pan gasket leakage

Chuck-----

One of the advantages of the 1 piece rubber oil pan gaskets is that they have "torque-limiting" inserts at the bolt holes. However, if one really tries, even these can be defeated and rendered useless.