After nine months of winter storage, I fired up my 67' 350hp roadster for the 2007 season this afternoon - and it turned over without missing a beat. After fourty years, these cars are just as reliable as day one, and everyone I passed on the road had a huge smile on their faces. I want to take this opportunity to thank everyone at NCRS for taking the time and care whenever questions come up with regards to mechanics and aesthetics. This hobby is a true passion - and no-one in my family understands my undying love for my 67 Lynndale Blue roadster. I do have one quick question! I noticed a small leak from the radiator on the driver side, just under the gooseneck, where the upeer hose fits in. The leak produced enough of a leak for 4-5 drops of coolant to make its way down to the lower shrowd. This car was drived 30 miles a year for the last ten years (original radiator) after a total restoration. I just started taking it out regularly. Should I drive it regularly to see if the leak seals up on its own? A radiator change is on my nightmare list. Thanks!!
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Re: GOD BLESS GENERAL MOTORS & CHEVY - 1st RIDE '0
David-----
You may just have a hose leak at the upper hose; that's what it sounds like. What is the condition of the upper hose? Is it fairly new or has it been on the car a long time? If it's fairly new, I'd just try tightening the radiator hose clamp a bit. If the hose is older, my suggestion would be to replace it. It's very easy to replace an upper radiator hose.
I doubt that the leak represents a failure in any way of the radiator, but it's not beyond the realm of possibility. If it's a 40 year old radiator, it's probably "living on borrowed time".
Replacing the radiator in your car, when it comes to that, is by no means a "nightmare" job. It's pretty simple and straigtforward.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: GOD BLESS GENERAL MOTORS & CHEVY - 1st RIDE '0
As Joe suggested, this may be nothing more than the upper hose connection to your radiator. I would start with removing the upper portion of the hose, where it connects to the radiator, cleaning the mounting surface and reattaching the hose. Be careful because you know you are dealing with a 40 year old soldering job. If you find that your radiator does have a leak I don't think that there is any way that the radiator is going to heal itself. Again, as Joe stated, if you need to go that route, a radiator change in a mid-year is very easy - just not cheap ! When I did have to change out the one on my 66 350hp, I marked the hinge areas with chalk and removed the hood. The R & R of the radiator is really quite simple.
GaryComment
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Re: GOD BLESS GENERAL MOTORS & CHEVY - 1st RIDE '0
If you're using repro, tower type clamps, use some sealant on the hose. These clamps usually can't be tightened down as much as the originals without distorting or bending them out of shape. The sealant won't show.Comment
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Re: GOD BLESS GENERAL MOTORS & CHEVY - 1st RIDE '0
Rob-----
I agree. Using sealant on the hose is a good way to prevent leaks. The only problem is that when there comes a need to remove the hoses, it's pretty much a "cut-and-peel" sort of operation. Of course, if the only reason one is removing the hoses is to replace them, then there's no problem.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: GOD BLESS GENERAL MOTORS & CHEVY - 1st RIDE '0
Rob,Joe and David,
I just had the same issue with my 66 and repro tower clamp. I was able to stop it with additional tightening of the clamp but if it reoccurs what type of sealant are you talking about.
I was going to try silicone lubricant to allow the hose to move under the clamp.
RandyComment
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Re: GOD BLESS GENERAL MOTORS & CHEVY - 1st RIDE '0
Randy,
I just used a small amount of Permatex BLACK SILICONE Adhesive Sealant (16B). I applied it so it would be under the hose where the clamp would be installed.Comment
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