1967 Frame Replacement

[John Pelkofer Jr]

Hello, A friend of mine took his 1967 coupe out of storage last week and failed state inspection due to rust in the rear kick up and upper side rail sections. He had a complete exterior restoration done two years ago and the car looks perfect. My questions are 1)Can the body be removed without damaging
the exterior and paint 2)Would it be better to lift the body off using several
men or lift it with one of the 4 strap slings, and 3) Can anyone give me feedback on the reproduction frames and components available from Vette Products of Michigan? Thank you in advance for any and all feedback.

[Douglas L.]

Re: 1967 Frame Replacement

John,

Your best bet is to find an original good solid used 66 or 67 frame. 66 will, with a few mods, work for a 67. Or you can take the original frame to a frame restoration shop and get it fixed. Done correctly, you will not be able to distinguish what was done. Suggest using the 4 strap hoist to lift the body. Protect the paint with blankets. You should be able to get it done with no damage to the body.

[Stephen L.]

Re: 1967 Frame Replacement

You can definitely remove the body with out damage. Using a 4 strap sling with a center ring requires lots of headroom.

I'd recommend 4 straps, but with a "H" spreader beam. This allows you to control the center of gravity and keeps the straps vertical (not rubbing on the body) The center of gravity for an "empty" coupe is vertically above the lower windshield trim. I lifted the body by the rocker panel/cage lip inside the door opening to prevent damage to the rolled portion of the body. I made a dolly to set the body on supporting the four points under the body. The rear corners do not need support. The points under the radiator support can be supported from the dolly if you are going to work on the engine bay and lean on the fenders etc. If you are just rolling it into the corner then the front supports are not necessary.

I used metal tubing for the spreader but 2-2x4s nailed together and on edge at each bar location would work great.

Body Dolly:

If you plan on working on the underside of the body just make to corner legs higher to provide clearance to the underside...

Hook style:

"H" beam and center of gravity:

Boby lift (also can be done with doors open):

Hook location on rocker panel:

[Rob A.]

Re: 1967 Frame Replacement

John,

I used an "H" body lift setup like Steve described. A long center steel beem with two adjustable ones that slid on it at 90 degrees. There were chains with brackets on the ends that hung down from the cross beams that bolted to where the female hood latches bolt on and where the door striker plates attach, using the same holes. Nothing touched the body itself. It would be perfect for what you want to do. I think the company was it Seattle or Portland and I believe it was called Red Rooster Restoration. Maybe you can "google" it and find them and/or the product.

[John Pelkofer Jr]

Re: 1967 Frame Replacement

Thank you Doug, Steve, and Rob for your response. Thank you Steve for the pictures. As they say, a picture is worth 1000 words. I appreciate all your time. Thanks, John