1966-1967 Vette

[STEPHEN E. MUELLER]

Hello:

I have just found a either 1 1966-1967(427) in old hanger a few days ago. It has been there since 1983. The questions I have are 1. What to look to document its a 427 car? 2. What to look for? 3. What price would you assign a total project car? 4. who could restore this?? I have had 14 c3's-c5's over the last 11 years. However this would be my first mid year??

Thanks

Steve

[Mark J.]

Re: 1966-1967 Vette

There have been a couple of discussions on this board in the last few weeks regarding this topic.

One restoration shops cites the following estimates for a 63-67 Corvette:

Parts: $30,000 to $40,000
Labor: 1200 hours at $45 per hour ($54,000)

Personally the restoration expenses for my '66 small block have been closer to the $40,000 end of the scale, with me doing the work. But not having a lot of spare time, it is still not finished after four years.

If I had it to do all over again, I would have bought one that was already restored and would be well ahead of the game financially. Of course, I said this regarding three basketcase Sting Rays over the years and bought them all anyway...

You have to ask yourself what a similar car in ready-to-drive condition would cost. After you subtract the above estimate, then maybe you will have an idea of what to offer for your hangar find.

My two cents and all the best to you.

MRJ

[Tom D.]

Re: 1966-1967 Vette

Stephen: Look for a fuel line with a sharp turn toward the 427's fuel pump. See original 66 427 fuel line photo below, and note this one is not exactly bent right; It's slightly "bent away" from the engine - should be more in line with the frame (between the clip and the turn toward the engine). (I'll e-mail you a 67 427 photo like this if you ask.)

Also, look for an original "thin" (9/16 inch as I recall) sway bar in the REAR. Small block Corvettes had holes to mount the sway bar in the rear, but no bar.

Also, learn to detect the rear axle u-joint mounting variation.

Finally... Check the archives for other such discussions. I think the fuel line is the hardest to fake, due to the need to install it when the body is off the frame.

tom d.
4889




fuel line under-hood photo 427 (1966 orig.)

[Tom D.]

Mark: I couldn't agree more...

You gotta love the restoration more than the driving (to do what many of us have done).

In addition to moving stuff around, I only attached two parts to one car today. At this rate, I'll be done in _______ years.

Tom D.
4889

[Tom D.]

Re: 1966-1967 Vette *NM*

[Stephen L.]

Re: 1966-1967 Vette

Here is a photo of an original 67 fuel line as it would enter the fuel pump.

[Joe L.]

Re: Mark: I couldn't agree more...

Tom-------

...I didn't even attach two parts today; none yesterday, either.

[STEPHEN E. MUELLER]

Re: 1966-1967 Vette

To All:

Thanks for your input and pictures this was very helpful. I will let you know the outcome.
Steve

[STEPHEN E. MUELLER]

Re: 1966-1967 Vette

Hello all:

I got a little more info on the car. I have found out that the car is a 1966 coupe 427/390HP. However it is a short block CE. The gentelmen bought the car in 1970 from the orginal owner. I am going to look at in detail this week. How much has this hurt the potential value?????? He does have most of the original paperwork!!!!!!!!

Steve

[Jack H.]

Re: 1966-1967 Vette

The presense of a CE replacement engine will detract from the car's Flight Score depending on the degree it deviates from a factory orignal engine (correct block cast no, configuration and cast date?). The scoring rules are given in the NCRS Judging Reference manual and the impact could be as much as a full deduction for the block (350 point loss) to as little as a deduction for the stamp pad 'numbers' (50 point loss).

There are 4500 possible points in Flight Judging, so you run the math. It works out to a range of 1.1-7.7%. How does that affect value? It depends on who the buyer is and whether he/she even cares about factory originality.

If they did and they wanted to 'correct' the situation by using a 'restoration' block, they'd be looking at something like $3500-6500 to replace the existing CE block that's in the car today (depends on what's useable, who does the stamp/broach work, what donor block is used, and who does the basic R&R labor).

Bottom line, restoration economics and 'value' computation are rather tricky items to assess and needless to say it's a subjective area....