There's quite some truth to the statement, "Tighten one turn after contacting gasket, check for leaks". During the process of changing over filters (not a complete oil change), would a cold engine make a significant difference in the ease of filter removal? I've never removed a filter before with a cold engine and I will say, it wasn't a pretty site. Quite honestly, for a moment, my mind was racing with some very unpromising thoughts. Although I was able to satisfactorly remove it (YES!), it wasn't without a complete collapse of the filter. With a tendancy to overtighten, I do not recall the installation to have been to this degree of tightness. I presume the differences I've experienced here have got to be a combination of overtightening during installation and the absence of a hot engine?
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Re: Oil Filter Removal
What kind of tool were you using to remove the filter? The best tool is the cap that fits the end facets on the filter housing, and is used with a standard 3/8" drive rachet handle. The torque applied to the filter housing is then pure torsion without the added force of trying to grip the housing tight enough to get adequate friction; i.e. you'll be less likely to collapse a filter housing if you're not squeezing the heck out of it.
In general, I've always found that trying to tighten a filter one full turn after it contacts the gasket will overtighten the filter, and have never done it that way; I have always tightened them as tight as possible with my bare hands. If you're using the cap tool on a torque wrench, about 20 ft-lb will get the filter good and tight, but not so tight you can't get it off at the next change.
Cold engine temperature may increase the removal torque slightly if the filter was installed with the engine hot, but I doubt this small change would become problem if you're using the proper tool. -
Re: Oil Filter Removal
In addition I always smear some oil on the fresh gasket before installation. Keeps the gasket from sticking to the mating surfacesComment
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Re: Oil Filter Removal
One turn is too much. Use 3/4, and as suggested use an "end cap" socket to remove and install the filter.
DukeComment
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Re: Oil Filter Removal
Filters that are hard to break loose are the result of the rubber sealing gasket sticking to the block. The best way to get them loose is to smack the filter on first one side and then the other with a two pound hammer. That breaks the stuck seal and the filter will spin right off. No special tools required. I'd agree that 3/4 turn after gasket contact with the block is about right when installing the filter.Comment
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Re: Oil Filter Removal
All points well taken. Although the end result was without incident, this information would have come in handy earlier today. I've got the wrong filter removal tool, which is an older style/type. The 1" band that goes around the filter does not disburse sufficient contact with the filter, particularly when a fair amount of force is needed to break it loose. I've already installed the new filter...hand tight only and plan to pick up the newer style removal tool. Thanks.Comment
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Re: Oil Filter Removal
Ray, as I've gotten older, and the old testosterone level has dropped, I find that tightening by hand is not reassuring anymore in spite of more grunting, straining, and changing positions for better advantage. At my age, I just put the torque wrench on it, and crank in 20 ft-ibs, and "stick it with a fork".Comment
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