Leading info to cover rust pits

[Steve L.]

Is there any info on the web or otherwise on how to actually do this technique.
This is using lead solder to fill in pits on frames.
Which lead solder, 60/40?

Steve L
73 since new

[Dick W.]

Re: Leading info to cover rust pits

I think that you will find that leading is a dead/dying art. It also has health issues. I believe that you will find that 3M has some polyester fillers that would work very well for filling pits.

We have always sand blasted the frame, washed with metal etching, used a self etching primer such as PPG's DP products, primed with a heavy build polyester primer/surfacer such as PPG's K-36, sanded, and then used a filler. I do not like Bondo or a like material for this. Also make sure that when you sand the primer/surfacer down that if you go down to bare metal to be sure to prime with DP again to maintain the adheasion and corrosion prevention.

Remember that there is a difference in a primer and a primer/surfacer. The primer is just for adheasion/corrosion prevention, while the primer surfacer is for leveling out panels.

[David B.]

Re: Leading info to cover rust pits

Eastwood carries a lead-free autobody solder now. You can get a kit, including a DVD on how to use it.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=14770&itemType=PRODUCT

David

[John D.]

Re: Leading info to cover rust pits

David, Lead free solder doesn't seem to flow out as smooth as the lead stuff. Also takes more heat to use. I personally don't like it. Haven't used Eastwood's brand though. John

[David B.]

Re: Leading info to cover rust pits

John,

Thanks. I haven't used the Eastwood product either. But, I suspect it would require more heat as you said. I plan to give it a try on a '57 Chevy. The danger of working with the old original lead is in the grinding and ensuing dust. If your experience indicates that the newer substitute doesn't spread well, that may cause more grinding - which may be a problem also.

David

[Rob A.]

Re: Leading info to cover rust pits

Steve,

Assuming you're doing this for asthetic purposes...I restored a frame that was covered in these imperfections. I used black bonding adhesive from Bair's. Very easy to apply and sand. It never cracked or loosened. Apply it like bondo.

[John D.]

Re: Leading info to cover rust pits

Steve, I didn't read your original post in enough depth. To actually use solder to fill in pits may be an overkill and extremely difficult. Go to your favorite auto store -say PPG and ask the manager what he would recommend to fill pitts. There are a lot of good bondos that will do the job. And in a fraction of the time with probably better results. Talk to some of the restoration shops and see what they do.
I would think though that a lot of individuals on this board have there own method and can recommend some brand names to use.
I assume you are going to be painting the part and not getting it chrome plated?

[Don Y.]

Re: Leading info to cover rust pits

Steve,
Recently sandblasted and painted my '57 frame and we used a filler called "Fibertech" by Evercoat. Very tough stuff and recommended by the restoration shop performing the body work on my frame off. The parts we filled look great but I would be very cautious about the bottom surfaces of the frame where you may place a floor jack, even with a pad between the jack and frame. Other board members have indocated they got some flaking of fillers. I suppose this could happen with lead also but may be less likely.
Don Yesacavage

[Steve L.]

Re: Leading info to cover rust pits

Thanks for all your inputs.
The floor jack problem is what got me thinking of the lead rather than any filler.

I wonder if leading only the floor jack locations and using the filler for the rest of it would be better.

Steve L
73 coupe since new

[Dick W.]

Re: Leading info to cover rust pits

Steve, I just looked at a car that we restored over 15 years ago using the procedure that I talked about. Absolutely NO flaking or rust on the frame. The car has been driven a few thousand miles also. I think that the lead is overkill, plus you still have the possibility of rust under the lead. Stick with primer, primer/surfacer, and filler. Easier in the long run.

[John D.]

Re: Leading info to cover rust pits

Dick, You just mentioned the biggest draw back using lead. Neutralizing the acid core of the solder. Can you imagine paying a resto shop to use solder. Would be cheaper to buy a new frame. Why aren't you at BG??? John

[Dick W.]

Re: Leading info to cover rust pits

John, I am going to attend an auctioneers designation course later this week. Wish I was there rather than sit in a class for 8 hours.

[Norris W.]

Re: Leading info to cover rust pits

One process that nobody has mentioned is the metal spray/spray welding process. There are shops all over the country with the equipment to do it.

At the "Year One Experience" several weekends ago at Road Atlanta, I got into a conversation with a media blaster about filling pits in frames. I told him the my powder coater of choice now has said that he doesn't know of any filler that will hold up to oven baking, even All Metal Filler. He said his spray welding technique will do it economically, and when ground looks just like fresh metal. I've seen it advertised in Hemmings in the past in various areas of the country. I ran into another guy at the rotisserie booth who said he'd had a chassis done with the process, had it powder coated semi gloss black and that it looked NOS. I'm going to give it a shot within the next several months with one of mine.