I am in need of identifying the best material and process to reliably fill "BB" sized pot marks or voids in the upper surround of my 1967 Corvette. I want to fill the "pockets" in a way that will not shrink, seperate or fall out. Can I get some reccomendations from those who have done this successfully. Thanks
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Re: C2 Fiberglass hole filler
Gary, to insure success with these repairs, if there are not too many of them, I would probably take the same approach as with small stress cracks...it's the harder, more work intensive approach but that's the way I would do it. If these pocks are very closely spaced, maybe another method would be better.
Stress crack repair means v-grinding the crack (or dishing out the "pock") by grinding with say a 36 grit disc, building the ground area back up by laminating resin and mat, and then grinding/sanding the area to contour. You should plan to let such repairs "sun" for a few months before putting on any paint or gelcoat. When I got ready to paint, I would at least gelcoat any repairs.
Much easier methods to fill these "pocks" come to mind, but I don't have any experience on the longevity of such repairs...fiberglass filled body filler, "kitty hair" (a resin paste mixed with glass fibers), ordinary body filler, or maybe even catalyzed glazing cream. Any of these would be much easier than resin and mat, and if you have a LOT of closely spaced "pocks", one of these may be preferred.
Maybe others with body repair experience can teach us both something more about these "easier" methods. -
Re: C2 Fiberglass hole filler
You could get one hundred opinions on how to address rock chips in your car. What is the state of your project, is it stripped to bare glass, blocked out and ready for sealer etc? You definitely do not want to make mountains out of mole hills with repairs like this. You do not mention any cracks or holes, just chips. Depending upon the state of your car there are a couple ways I would do this repair. Make sure the substrate is totally clean, that is wax and silicone free. Rock chips have a way of collecting wax and road debris. Wash this area down several times with something like Acetone to clean the substrate good and let the chemicals evaporate. The pits need to be clean in order to get a good bond to the filler or epoxy. If you are ready to shoot sealer on this, I would block it out with 80 grit, shoot two coats of SPI epoxy over the whole area (you could use PPG DP but I think SPI is better). The next day I would spread Evercoat 870/880 over the pitted area. I like 870 because it is a very dense filler/adhesive similar to the substrate, let it cure and block it out, and if you have any sand through, spot prime those areas with the epoxy again. Remember that regardless of the epoxy you use, they have a working window of 5-7 days before you need to sand them to apply the next coat. Your next coat would be a high build 2K primer that would fill any low spots.
You could also apply the 870/880 to the bare glass that has been blocked out with 40 grit. If you like using epoxy resins, you can mix up a fairing compound by using two part epoxy and add enough microsphere powder to it until it nears the texture of peanut butter, then spread that over the areas of bare glass with the pits. Epoxy doesn't shrink back like polyester but it does take several days before it is cured enough to sand out. You would then seal the car with your epxoy sealer followed by 2k primer.Comment
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