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Can't seem to find the 1970 conv't. polished stainless windshield header trim in any of the Corvette parts catalogs. I'm looking just for the long center pc. and don't require the end pcs. Is there a chance this may still be available across the counter at the dealer?
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Re: 1970 conv't. windshield header trim
William-----
If you're referring to wide, "flat" stainless steel molding (i.e. the one that's mostly covered when the top is up), that piece was GM #3935577 and it was discontinued without supercession in March, 1994. I don't think that it's reproduced. So, you'll need to look for a good used one.
Actually, the corner pieces with the "eyelets" for the top pins were available until just a few years ago and I think those might be reproduced.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: 1970 conv't. windshield header trim
Paragon had some several years a go, so a possibility there. I have also seen a few come up on eBay. If you still have yours, a stainless restorer can do a lot for dents and minor abrasions.
AGComment
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Re: 1970 conv't. windshield header trim
Thanks to A.G. & Joe. I still have mine and it isn't dented or dinged but is scuffed up pretty badly. I only live a dozen miles or so from the Bloomington meet so I'll probably check there first and then try a restoration of the one I have. Were all C3 conv't. header trim pcs. the same or were there differences from year to year?Comment
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Re: 1970 conv't. windshield header trim
Apparently they were NOT all the same; there appear to be some subtle differences that may deal with the number of screws retaining the trim.
My 72 issued parts book, and 70 AIM, shows PN 3966659 as the Molding, Roof Center Support Reveal for 70-72, and for 68-69, (SECOND DESIGN). There is a note below the molding listing that says Note 1: When using 3966659 in place of 3935640 it is necessary to use 2/3966660 brkts. and drill 2/0.17" c/sunk holes in each corner molding using outer holes of ctr. mldg as a template.
It appears to me that PN 3935640 was the FIRST DESIGN center support reveal molding in 68/69, and it had NO SCREWS on the ends where it joins the corner moldings. Although I was unaware of this subtle difference, a sharp judge should know these application differences, and deduct if the support reveal molding is exposed during judging. If your molding doesn't have the holes, restoration of the original is likely the best approach.
Part number 3935577 is the narrow windshield upper reveal molding for 68-69 (SECOND DESIGN), and 70-72. I don't know that both the windshied reveal and the center support moldings were changed at the same time, but I suspect they probably were.Comment
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Edit:
Just woke up to the fact you have a 70. A 70 and later cars should have the 3966659 molding; that means it should have holes for countersinking screws at the extreme ends of the molding where it joins the corner moldings.Comment
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Re: 1970 conv't. windshield header trim
Thanks for the help Chuck. I have a friend who is checking the dealer network to see if one may be sitting on a shelf somewhere in the country. If that doesn't pan out then at least I'll know what to look for if shopping at Bloomington is my only course of action.Comment
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Re: 1970 conv't. windshield header trim
William, if the scuffs are not really deep, I would try restoring it...even if you don't use it, it will have some ebay value (disclose condition completely). Use progressively finer sandpaper to take out the scratches, and then polish the micro-scratches out using white rouge for stainless steel.
Pick your initial grit paper according to how long you want to rub vs. the depth of the sand scratches; if the scratches are shallow, you may be able to start with 400 grit...if they are deep, you may have to go to 240 grit and work your back up. I would be wet sanding with about 1000 grit paper at the end; the 1000 grit will be taking out 600 grit or whatever the grit scratches from the previous paper.
Many of these stainless moldings got a flash chrome plate that gives reflected light a clear or blue color. If this molding has the flash chrome plate (haven't looked real close in awhile), you can expect the stainless to have a very light straw tinge to it once you have buffed off the chrome. You can address this as you see fit; I can't say if it's discernable in judging, but if it is, having the molding replated with flash chrome may be an option.
If you find a perfect original, this may be the cheaper alternative; reusing the old molding is then a moot point.Comment
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Re: 1970 conv't. windshield header trim
Chuck-----
Yes, I was incorrect. The GM #3935577 is the upper REVEAL molding, not the header molding. The header molding for 1970-75 was GM #3966659, as you described.
The GM #3966659 was discontinued from SERVICE in January, 1977 and replaced by GM #345464. The latter part was discontinued without supercession in October, 1980.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: 1970 conv't. windshield header trim
William-----
If your piece only suffers from light scratches or dullness, I would definitely concur with Chuck and recommend that you try to have it polished. A professional polisher should be able to do wonders with it. Even if it suffered from other damage, it could likely be restored. However, that would be a lot more difficult and complex.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: 1970 conv't. windshield header trim
No big deal, Joe...I only found this out when my 70 AIM header molding part number was later than the one you quoted. I began to try and figure out how a later production part number was superceded by an earlier part for service.
Once I began reading my old parts book, things became a little bit clearer. I don't know if the difference in these header moldings is well known to exterior/interior judges, but this question was very fruitful for me. This subtle difference between the first design and the second design was something I never would have known otherwise.Comment
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Re: 1970 conv't. windshield header trim
Thanks for all of the help fellows. My 1st choice will be to shop at Bloomington for a new or good used one and if that fails then I'll try the refinishing method. I would imagine that the sandpaper used with a pneumatic grinder would be a little too agressive method and sanding by hand would be preferable?Comment
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Re: 1970 conv't. windshield header trim
Joe's right...you won't find a new one; I would bet on it. You might be able to find a good used one, but it may be in worse shape than the one you have.
Pneumatic grinder??!! OhhhhYeahhhh...you want to do this by hand; the reason is, if you're headed down the wrong road (too coarse grit?), you want to recognize it soon, stop, and adjust. When you get into to this, it's going to seem like that stainless steel is like sanding your driveway, but if you give in to the temptation to "make things happen" fast, you'll be screwed up before you know it.Comment
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