C2:67 Help, stuck on step 5

[Gerard F.]

Figured I'd remove the leaky power steering cylinder from my 67 S/B today, put the repro one on while I refurbed the old one.

Got through steps 1-4 from the 67 Service Manual, no sweat but a little messy.
Step 5 says to "Remove the power cylinder from the vehicle".

No way is that ball stud coming off of the relay rod. Tried with a pickle fork and a 2# sledge, nada, it is frozen on. Thus the picture as I left it.

Any tricks of the trade would sure be appreciated.

Frustrated but still having fun

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Tim Sargent]

Re: C2:67 Help, stuck on step 5

I have used tie rod-end pullers for this with success. You can buy one for around $45
Tim

[Howard M.]

Re: C2:67 Help, stuck on step 5

Jerry:
I took mine off by heating the relay rod with a torch and while hot, used the pickle fork/hammer route. The puller is a better way to go however.

[Joe R.]

Re: C2:67 Help, stuck on step 5

Hi Jerry:

I have a puller that I can send you if you like.

[Joe C.]

Re: C2:67 Help, stuck on step 5

Jerry,

Can I safely say that you would be averse to the JUDICIOUS use of heat? IMHO, that would be the quickest and easiest way to break it loose! If you are, then plan "B" is developed because of the fact that the relay rod, being mounted to the tie rods, idler and Pitman arms, has it's own built in shock absorber via the tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints/knuckles (not king pins ), steering coupler, and steering gear. In order to make the ball stud rigid enough to absorb the full force of the blow, you should remove the drag link/ram and mount it in a vise.
Of course, plan "C" involves using a bigger hammer, and taking a longer "windup".

Joe

See you in a few weeks!

[Phil P.]

Re: C2:67 Help, stuck on step 5

get 2 grade 8 nuts and put them on the stud,leave some room for stud movement and make sure the nuts are butted up together with about 3 to 4 threads off of the end of the stud---now whack the nuts with a hammer---good luck,phil

[Gerard F.]

Tried almost everything

Except taking the relay rod off. Tried a propane torch, nut with a 3# sledge, a pitarm puller, PB blaster, penetrating oil, no way is that ball stud coming off the relay rod. Don't understand how something can get so frozen, it was put on only 5 years ago.

So after a number of expletives on a Sunday afternoon out of earshot of the wife, I realized my limitations. Backstepped through steps 4 to 1 and put the the cylinder back in place, and went through the bleeding procedure.

It now works like before, but I still have the leak; but only only when I make a turn. Luckily, the shop that put it on 5 years ago is only 5 NY blocks away, and they will take me any time.

Realized my limitations this weekend, but I had fun trying.
These cars are something else.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

Joe C and Joe R, looking forward to Boston.

[Chuck R.]

Re: Tried almost everything

Two hammers is all it takes Jerry.

Use a large two pound peen and whatever large headed object you can find to use as a backer on the up stream side of the relay rod.

Strike the down stream side of the relay rod with the heavy peen hammer and I guarantee you that the stud will pop free.

Of course the down side is that the relay rod will have a flat spot where you hit it.

I'm not a real fan of putting tons of heat on components that take a fair amount of stress like relay rods, control arms or the lower shock/strut rod bolts.

Hope you got it out,

Chuck

[Dick W.]

Re: Tried almost everything

Heating any steering parts is not a good idea. The parts are heat treated and addition of heat could weaken the parts.