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Looking at getting a correct block for the 61. I am learning through this board and the Judging Manual that I should have a CU block (for 270 2x4) and i have been looking at blocks that end in "D" which is pass car or truck. Other than the D .vs. CU if the casting is the same and the date is in line, are there any other differences in the blocks (any humps or bumps or other casting differences)?
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Re: C1 - 61 engine block
All engine blocks were cast alike 'ignorant' of their ultimate car/truck assignment. The only difference lies in WHERE the block was cast with both Saginaw (feeding the Flint engine plant) and Tonawanda making slightly different versions of the same block. Only the Saginaw/Flint plants supplied the Corvette final assy line at St. Louis (with minor exceptions from time to time), so you do NOT want to buy a Tonawanda engine block for a Corvette restoration because judges will spot it immediately as being 'wrong' (see archives for the telltale difference)....
Once the block was cast, secondary operations (drilling/tapping, Etc.) and assy 'stuffing' particulars (what crank, what pistons/rods/cam, what intake?) determined the ultimate destination for the engine and that's what the suffix code (2-digit alpha characters) represent on the stamp pads you're looking at. But for random selection from inventory at Flint, a given passenger car/truck motor 'could' have been built as a Corvette engine.
Some view dimly the act of finding a correctly dated engine block casting that was originally built for passenger car/truck use and making it over into a Corvette 'restoration' motor. But, if done 'correctly', it's impossible to tell the difference and the end game in restoration is to make a given restoration Corvette 'appear' as if it could be factory original. So, the choice is yours...
The reason you're seeing so many engine blocks with a 'D' suffix code on the stamp pad is that they represent the most popular configution of the 283 engine from that era (a base 2-Bbl carb and powerglide automatic transmission). But, if the single D goes to a 'DG' or 'DJ' (with correct font, placing and spacing), you have an 'original' 230 HP/AT or 245 HP/AT Corvette engine block.
But for the random selection of any 'D' stamped engines at Flint, they 'could' have been real McCoy Corvette motors. The same goes for a 'C' stamped engine. It left Flint configured for a less popular, 2-Bbl carb/manual transmission' car/truck installation.... -
Re: C1 - 61 engine block
OK Jack, Thanks, that was exactly what I was looking for. And what I am looking at is FXXXXD blocks that are advertized as Corvette; good clean $750 blocks that have the casting, the date and the F that I'm looking for. to find all that and a "CU" is like looking for a needle in a stack of needles! Thanks for the help!
JimComment
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Re: C1 - 61 engine block
Jim,
What happened to the 327 in the car now? I get the sense that it is DOA. Did you ever find the cause of the problems?
MikeComment
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Re: C1 - 61 engine block
Hey Mike:
Just planning for the potential issue... I have been tied up most nights this week, so I got the fuel pump replaced but not tried to run yet. I have to move the 70, lower the lift, take the 61 out drive it and hope for success, if not then get it up to temp and do the compression check and valve train visual (in reverse order) then go from there (I know... "WHAAAA, I have to move my other car, and bring it down from the lift" what an ass I sound like...) I'll be doing that this weekend...Comment
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