I just purchased the paint stripper (4 gallons) from Mid America. I saw the comments on Paint stripping on a past message. Now I am concerned on the difficulty of this process. Any tips, cautions, etc on this process would be helpful. For the body off resto guys, did you have the car painted before or after you put the body back on the frame. I am looking for pros/cons from those who have been there before me.
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Re: '63 Couple Paint Stripping = Comments/Sugg.
Dan,
Not to worry. Stripping your Corvette will require some work, but there is nothing complicated about the process.
If you have access to back issues of the Restorer, there is a comprehensive article by Armand Filer in Volume 8, Number 3 (Winter 1982). This article may also be on the new CD, but I am not sure. Armand goes into detail on the materials and tools you need (but I don't think you can find those old aluminum ice trays anymore; you know, to catch the goop you scape off).
I followed his article to the letter, and the task went as he said: "by the yard it's hard, but, by the inch it's a cinch". Translation: be patient, take your time, and think about all the money you are saving by doing it yourself.
Basically, you work with only two square feet at one time until finished; apply the stripper, let it set the prescribed time (cooler weather is actually better because the stripper doesn't dry out as fast), and scrape off the goop into some chemical resistant container. I recommend you put down plenty of paper around the car to catch the drips. If you didn't get all the color coats off (and you probably won't), repeat the process until you are down to the red primer. Then wipe down the surface thoroughly using lacquer thinner and paper towels.
You will find the stripper doesn't work very well on the red primer, and it is just as well, because you don't want stripper to soak into the fiberglass. Once you have exposed the red primer, commence to wet-sand it off down to the bare fiberglass with 220-240 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a rubber sanding block, changing your water frequently. Move to the next two square feet, and repeat the process until the entire car is strippped to bare 'glass. Armand's article also recommends saving the "used" sandpaper to sand the new primer.
From my experience, I have decided the best way to approach a restoration is to first do any body work needed, prep the body and prime the body BEFORE the body lift. That way any dust from the body work doesn't settle on your freshly restored chassis, and you don't risk damage to your brand-new perfect paint job during the body drop. After the body is primed, lift the body and place it on a WELL DESIGNED "body dolly" (it may be there for a while). Then restore the chassis. After the chassis is finished, you can wrap the chassis completely with "saran wrap", if you like, to protect the chassis from color overspray. Drop the body back onto the chassis, sand and prep the primer, and spray the color coats.
Chuck Sangerhausen -
Re: '63 Couple Paint Stripping = Comments/Sugg.
Dan,
A couple of important points I forgot to mention: (1) Use NO metal scrapers or tools to remove the goop from your fiberglass (plastic body filler spreaders are perfect for this purpose), and (2) Use NO steel wool to assist in the stripping process (use scotchbrite pads, available from your paint supply store).
Chuck SangerhausenComment
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Re: '63 Couple Paint Stripping = Comments/Sugg.
Dan, Chuck is right on about the stripping. That is almost exactly how I did my '74. The only difference was that I let the stripper fall on newspapers that I spread out all around the car, then crumpled up the newspapers and threw them away. Works great, and the bodyshop said they had never seen one stripped so clean (head exploding over here!) C-ya Jeff
Jeff's '74 Corvette Restoration ProjectComment
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Re: '63 Couple Paint Stripping = Comments/Sugg.
Thanks to all for the advice. One last question, should I be concerned with using the stripper, Capt. Lee's, as found in Eckler and Mid=America, over repaired areas. I know that some repair work has been done in some sections. Should I avoid those areas with the stripper and use the alternative method... Sanding? Many thanks, DanComment
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Re: '63 Couple Paint Stripping = Comments/Sugg.
Dan,
If you are asking if the stripper will soften body filler, the answer is yes for the aftermarket fillers, but not the original factory fillers; they are like rock.
If your plan is to maintain the repair areas as they are, I would avoid getting stripper near the filler. From what I have read, most "experts" see the stripping of the car as an OPPORTUNITY to find all the old repairs so the filler can be ground out and replaced; but if you are satisfied the original repairs were done well, you might just avoid stripper in those areas, and see how sanding works. Be careful not to work those filler areas too much with that 220-240 grit paper such that you lose your contour.
If you are concerned about accidently getting stripper onto the bare, repaired fiberglass, I don't think you need to worry too much, provided you wipe the fiberglass down quickly and thoroughly with lacquer thinner. The stripper won't penetrate into the fiberglass instantaneously, and after it has been wiped down, the final sanding step removes the very top surface anyway.
After you have stripped/sanded the car as I posted earlier, it should have the right "tooth" for the first prime coat.
Chuck SangerhausenComment
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Re: '63 Couple Paint Stripping = Comments/Sugg.
Chuck:
I tried the Spra-Strip on one of the headlamp bodies. The stripper rapidly went through the grey primer, then almost through the red primer below. I then wet-sanded with 320 down to the 'glas. It is very smooth, no cracks, hairs, fibers, etc. Does this sound good?Comment
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Re: '63 Couple Paint Stripping = Comments/Sugg.
Dan,
Sorry I didn't see your post earlier. I didn't get the e-mail notification.
Your result sounds perfect. That Spra-Strip must be pretty strong if it's taking off the red oxide primer. Just wipe it down throughly with lacquer thinner and rinse it well with water before you start wet sanding. That will insure that all the stripper is neutralized.
Elbow grease is all you need now.
Chuck SangerhausenComment
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Re: '63 Couple Paint Stripping = Comments/Sugg.
If your stripping the whole car, be real careful in the interior. I also used Spray-a-strip and thought it would be easy to take the carpet glue off the interior. Boy was I wrong, it went through the gel-coat and I ended up with a hairy mess, fiberglass hairs that is. Seems the gel-coat in the interior is much thinner than the exterior. If I had it to do over, I would NOT use paint remover in the interior.Comment
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Re: '63 Couple Paint Stripping = Comments/Sugg.
Dan,
Last night when I read your post, I noted you were using 320 grit paper.
My previous advice that after stripping and wet sanding, the body would have the right "tooth" for the first primer coat is based on using 220-240 grit paper. Before you get too far, you may want to check with the painter to confirm that he feels good about the 320 grit prep, unless you plan on sanding the body again before paint.
Chuck SangerhausenComment
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Re: '63 Couple Paint Stripping = Comments/Sugg.
Chuck:
Understand on the sand paper grit. I started with the 320 because I wanted to be "gentle". I understand the "tooth" analogy. The 220 was also what the body shop suggested when I contacted them. So far, I have only done a portion of the headlamp body and I will go over that area again with the 220. Again, many thanks.Comment
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