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I'm replacing the main fuel line from sender to pump, can someone tell me the length of straight 3/8" steel line I need? I don't want to get too long and have to cut and flare it (although i have been looking for an excuse to buy a flaring tool).
Thanks!
Jim
Buy a tubing cutter and flaring tool - you'll need it. Your odds of finding a standard length of pre-flared 3/8" fuel line with the correct fittings that precisely matches the developed length of the '61 main fuel line are ZERO. As an alternative, you can buy the long fuel line, already pre-bent and flared with the front fitting on it, ready to install, from any of the usual vendors.
There's lots of bends in that line. I think it'd be tough to duplicate it. You can buy pre-bent lines from the usual vendors. I think the cost is around $30. There's an oversize shipping cost too - few bucks. Are you going to Carlisle? Order it now; pick it up there; and, avoid shipping costs.
I've done this twice. I've been told that the line can be installed in 1 piece with a little bending and some cursing. But I couldn't do it. Last time the battery tray was out too. 'Course I've got the patience of a 4 year old. I cut mine in half, and took out a little piece. In that cut, I installed a super-secret-anti-theft fuel shut off petcock. $4 Home Depot compression fitting item. I measured so the cut was in line with the rear of the door. Now when I leave the car and get in, I walk over to the passenger side, and reach down to turn it off and on. It's a bit of a stretch. But you can usually reach in there without getting on your knees.
I like to turn the gas off when I store the car. It's a great anti-theft device. It allows me to run the carb bowls dry of gas. It allows me towork on the fuel pump. And it made the installation of that line so much easier.
...one duplicate his approach on the installation. I would offer that you can install the replacement line in one piece without removing much - maybe the splash shield IIRC. I have the patience of a 66 year old - that creeper with the head rest is not all bad... ZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzz
I'm hoping it cuts down on deposits and sticky stuff left by evaporating gasoline. The gasoline in the bowls of my AFB evaporates in about 1 week. When it does that, I'm guessing that it leaves behind deposits, varnish, goop, and other undesirable stuff. Not much, mind you, but some. If I run the bowl dry, that cuts down on the crud. At least, I hope so. Now, truth be told, I should do this every time I put the car in the garage. But I don't. I do do it, though, when I put the car away for the Winter. But, yeah, you're right, this is not a big deal.
Thought you had a 56 with WCFBs but just read your profile and see you have a 62 and you are from Boston. Now I truly understand the anti theft idea. I'm originally from Danvers.
jon cris denis rob Thanks JOhn, Chris, Dennis and Rob! The vendor price for the ltwo lines from pump tp fuel gage is in the $75 range and a 5' pc of 3/8" with correct fittings is about 5 bucks. Of course there are no spirals so it won't look original. i think the l;ongest I can get is 5' but with Chris's idea of a shut off that works, I think I'd like to put the shut off in a more hidden area though, I'll have to think about that one... thanks again!!!
P.s. Chris, when we gonna drop that new motor into the 62???
I don't know how you could hide the petcock. The line runs down the outboard side of the passenger side frame rail. If you reroute the line to hide it, you won't be able to reach it without crawling under the car.
Spent all day yesterday and today getting the engine compartment ready. Most everything is out now. Still need to clean and paint it. Need to fix the radiator harness. Engine's coming along. Right now I'm trying to make all the pieces that go on the engine pretty. Paint, de-rust, clear coat, etc. We put the creep in project creep.
I sense that you are planning on "cheating" by buying two lines and attaching the flared sides to the tank and fuel pump respectively with the shut off valve in the middle connected via compression fittings. But if you decide to flare tubing yourself, make sure that you buy a flaring tool capable of producing DOUBLE flares necessary for a good fit in fuel and especially brake lines. These kits have "buttons" of different sizes that prepare the first roll of the flare. Carefully square cut and debur the tube before attempting the flares.
And be careful not to kink the tubes while bending. Since you are going to cut one end off of each you can buy a cheap set of tube bending springs that slip over the tube and allow manual bending while lessening the liklihood of kinking. You might find the springs for less than $10 in the collection of Chinese tools offered at most local auto parts stores.
Sorry for the late reply, thanks Mike, i have a bender feom another project.na a new double flaring tool. I just can't see spending $85 on "exact" lines that I can make for $10...
Yea, but how critical is that protection in a car that only get's driven 5 or 6 thousand miles a year? Is there a way to add that to standard "bare naked" lines?
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