Anyone know of a place in So. Cal that checks A/C compressors for leaks/function while OFF THE CAR ? I've got a '65.
Thanks,
Mark #44808
Thanks,
Mark #44808
-
-
Re: A/C compressor check
Mark,
You likely have the Delco Frigidaire A6 Compressor. I have the A6 on a Jaguar XKE V12 we own and it's identical. I would recommend if it is out of the car to have the outer seal replaced. These seals typically wear over time allowing oil to spread all over the hood. I myself have rebuilt my A6 compressor and replaced the special ceramic seal I spoke of. It requires special tools and the seals are still available through some suppliers and occasionally on ebay. Watch out if you consider buying a new unit as they are threaded for metric bolts, which is very strange as originals always were SAE threads. Rebuilt units have not had a good reputation based on my research also. There is a place in Tampa FL that does the rebuilding but I have not done business with them. I hear they do most rebuilds for the suppliers.
Can't help with CA area, but I just wanted to let you know about the seal. I did much research before I tore into my A6. Here are a few links of info for you to check out and a forum regarding the seals, and some suppliers of the seal.
Hope it helps,
Rich Mozzetta #13499
---------------
-
Re: A/C compressor check...A6 Rebuild pics
Mark,
I forgot I took some photos of the shaft seal work I did on the A6. Links below. You may think it's somewhat crazy, but I did not want to give up the original A6 as it's only problem was oil seal leak and a little refridgerant loss. Verified with leak detector and blacklight. These seals by design are supposed to weep a little oil to lubricate the seal or they'll fail. Too much is bad as you then loose R12. There is a oil wick that gets saturated over time so that needs to be cleaned or replaced too. I'm also one of those "rather do it myself and have fun" nuts. I could have bought a rebuilt for around $150, but opted to pay apx $75 for the seal replacement toolkit and $30 for the seal and do it myself. Still saved money and knew I had the original. BTW, after all was done, had the system recharged at a shop with R12 and got 32F at the vents at idle. 3 months later so far no problems. I'm a C1 owner but thought this may be of use to C2 owners here too. Sorry it's Jag related, but they used the GM A6 and identical to Corvette except the rear hose connector housings I think. BTW it's the wifes' car, I'm just the mechanic!
Rich Mozzetta #13499
Pics:
================================================== ===================Comment
-
Re: A/C compressor check...A6 Rebuild pics
Rich,
Thanks very much for the great info. I was thinking about using the place in FL also, but am now questioning it (not to mention they take about 8 weeks and $300 to complete). I will look into doing the seal work myself. The A/C did a fairly good job before I took the motor (and compressor) out, so I'm thinking on doing the seal only, and not get into all the guts of the compressor.
Where did you get your seal and the toolkit needed for the rebuild ?
MarkComment
-
TerryComment
-
Re: A/C compressor check...A6 Rebuild pics
Hi Mark,
Yes, your plan was like mine. These old units are very rugged inside as long as they're properly lubricated. They certainly are heavy monsters and rob power but they are proven workhorses. Seal is the weak link. Bearing and clutch plate follow.
Through a few web searches I found the seals at a few sites. One was included in my first post reply to you(the Buick Parts link). I actually found one seller on ebay that had about 6 nos available back in February and bought 2. I think it was a truck parts seller. These are the GM part #'s to search for: "Shaft Seal Kit" 9956695(old#) 6599114(new#). GM changed the part# at some point so check for both on the web or ebay. The kit consists of the white ceramic seal, o-ring, the carbon spring seat/o-ring, and a big retainer c-clip. There are likely many suppliers of these around. One thing though. Research told me some A6's used a bronze seal. I wasn't sure if mine was the ceramic or the bronze and didn't find out till I opened it. I think most are ceramic.
The seal toolkit was a tough search but found the least expensive from eaglebaycommons.com aliased mvpro.com. Part# 22-180. See the direct link for the kit at:
You will need long nose snap ring pliers to get the c-clip reatiner out that captures the seal. I made one on a grinder from cheap longnose pliers I had. You will also need the tools to remove and install the clutch plate if you don't have them. I had one from 10 years ago that I bought at a napa store when mine split from age. If you don't have one the above website has them individually total about $25. Search their site for "gm a6 clutch tool", should show you 99-454 and 99-458. You must use these tools to both remove AND install the clutch plate. BTW, I would highly recommend you replace the clutch plate and big bearing with new ones as the rubber is likely deteriorating on your original clutch and the bearing may be chattery. I did both too. I think gm still stocks them, or many others on the web. Fairly inexpensive if I recall. Also, when installing the clutch you have to measure clearance with a feeler gauge. It's a press fit onto the main shaft which is why you need the special puller and installer so you don't damage it or the comp shaft. The big bearing in the drive pulley will require a puller to remove and a press to install the new one. One other thing....after removing it, thoroughly clean the oil wick in the shaft with some solvent. It's made to retain the normal oil weapage from the seal and will keep oil off the underside of your hood for a while. If you find a supply of replacements somewhere please let me know as I couldn't at the time.
So yes it may cost you about $150+ for all of the stuff mentioned, but it'll still be your compressor, it'll be done on your schedule, and you'll have the tools handy for the future. Good luck and let me know if I can help when you dig into it.
Rich Mozzetta #13499Comment
-
Both are...
off-the shelf items at Pep Boys, if you have a local retail outlet. The ceramic seal kit is available under Delco Remy or Four Seasons branding. The clutch removal tool is on the Pep Boys A/C tools rack.
The Catch-22 item is getting a decent LONG nosed set of circular clip pliers that will fit, without interference, into the clutch/seal cavity... Some wind up fabricating their own using a bench grinder and a 'cheapie' set of long, thin, needle nose pliers.
Tip: when installing the ceramic seal, remember cleanliness is next to Godliness... Do NOT physically handle the ceramic components and make sure you've cleaned the seal cavity COMPLETELY before you install the new ceramic parts!Comment
-
Re: Both are...
Be sure too that the felt material in that wick doesn't shed little pieces. Back in the day we changed a lot of the ceramic seals because that felt got caught in the seal.TerryComment
-
Funny you mention that, Terry....
If I remember correctly, the GM ceramic seal kit comes with a new die cut piece of oil absorbing felt to re-line the clutch seal cavity, but the equivalent (cheaper) seal kit from Four Seasons lacks the felt. I always thought this was a cost reduction issue on behalf of Four Seasons, but your explanation makes sense!
They might have intentionally left the felt out of their ceramic seal kit because it had a reputation for 'flaking' and falling into the ceramic....Comment
-
Re: Longnose pliers C-clip tool I made and...
Jack,
Hmmm, I checked my local auto parts shops (Advanced/Zone) and they didn't have seals. Good info for the future.
Here's my version of the tool I made. $5 offshore pliers and 15 min on the grinder and hand filing. Trick is you need to have an offset at the tips to clear shaft nose side wall and narrow enough along the length to clear the shaft. The teeth on the tips help secure the clip too.
Yes very important to never touch seal surfaces and clean cavity completely. I think I spent > 1/2 hour with q-tips and solvent. Toughest area was the grooves for the c-clips and inner ceramic seal area where its outer o-ring sits. Instructions also state to lubricate the seal surfaces with a little refridgerant oil for startup protection.
Rich Mozzetta #13499Comment
Comment