I am about to replace the nose on my '60. Money precludes me from having it done by a pro and I really want to try it myself anyway. What's the best way to get the thing on straight? I'm replacing the hood surround (w/dash) and skirt. Any info will help.
-
-
Re: '60 nose replacement
Kevin,
'Ecklers's Complete Guide To Corvette Fiberglass Repair' is the best place to start. You can get it from the NCRS (513) 385-8526 or from Ecklers (800) 327-4868.
Ted -
Re: '60 nose replacement
Kevin, If you have the body off the frame, PUT IT BACK ON. I replaced the lower nose, and entire left side of my car and there is no better jig for holding the body together than the frame. It took me a couple of weekends to walk through the process of cutting the old off and putting the new on, but when I finally did it, I think I got it pretty close. Of course, if it's 99 points you're looking for call Corvette Image and get a professional to put it on.Comment
-
Re: '60 nose replacement
Ted, I'm doing it frame-on. How did you attatch the body pieces?Just bonding adhesive and clamping them and then bondo on the outer surface or are you glassing over the back of the joint and then screw sheetmetal screws into joint instead of clamping. The latter was suggested in the Eckler's book but the leaflet that was sent with the replacement glass (sermershein's) recommends the former and with no drilling into the outside panels as it creates more work.Comment
-
Re: '60 nose replacement
Kevin,
If you have Eckler's book, you probably read in there that sometimes you have be really creative with all kinds of bracing and such to get the fiberglass in the right position for bonding. It may take a combination of innovative means.
Ideally, you WOULD like to be able to use clamps totally to avoid putting ANY holes in the panels. Reality is, when you get that bonding adhesive mixed up, the clock has started; that panel HAS to go into the correct position without a whole lot of foolin' around and stay there until the adhesive has set up. The advantage of screws is that you can put your panel back EXACTLY where you had it for the final trial fit-up, and the screws WILL hold it without slipping or any change in position.
Considered in the entire scope of replacing a body panel, my opinion is that the screw holes are a minor consequence. If the panel you are replacing has a seam on the outside body surface, you will need to 'glass the seam. If you placed screws along the body seam into the bonding strip, these holes will be ground down and glassed over, such they are not even visible in the final product. But, you will have to be imaginative to fill and sand the holes in the bonding strip on the back side.
If it were me, I would try to eliminate any un-necessary penetrations of the body panel and use clamps wherever I was confident they could be installed quickly and would hold well; But if there were any doubt, I would not compromise the quick and sure placement of the panel.
Chuck SangerhausenComment
Comment