If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You must be an NCRS member
before you can post: click the Join NCRS link above to join. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
I'm looking for a good place in So. Cal. to replace a seal in my compressor. I got some info from a guy (Rich, if you're out there thanks) about rebuilding the comp. but am not going to have the time to do it myself, Anyone know of a good place in So. Cal to have the seal replaced (thing worked a few months ago, but seams to have leaked some oil recently)
Call around to various automotive A/C shops in your neck of the woods. Today, most simply repair compressors by substitution since the reverse assy line methods of volume rebuilders is SO CHEAP, they can't be competitive doing individual overhauls....
But, you WILL eventually find an automotive A/C shop with the special tools and 'good ole boy' mechanical experience to R&R the compressor's front seal. I strongly recommend you have them install the later version, ceramic, front seal + bearing instead of the original style sintered setup that was known for a short life and leaking.
Plus, once the job is done, you'll want to run-in the bearing/seal by using the A/C system for at least a couple of hours before you put 'baby' away for an extended sleep in the garage...
If you are concerned about originality, you should make sure that you get your original compressor rebuilt instead of being replaced with a rebuilt compressor of similar design. At least for 67 (the year I have), there is a casting date on the rear casting, a distinctive shape to the main case, and a date code on the label.
One place that will rebuild a compressor and return the same unit to you is Classic Auto Air in Tampa, Florida. I think that Old Air Products in Texas also rebuilds compressors.
You should also have your original drier rebuilt at the same time, since the dessicant in the drier is only intended to remove the amount of moisture in a single refrigerent charge. This would be a good time to replace the hoses, too.
Thanks a lot for the good info. You're the second guy who's told me about Classic Auto Air - sounds like the place to go (not cheap though - about $ 300 for compressor and drier + $100 S&H ). I'm wondering about the lines though. Makes sense to replace them, but they still look great (better than Paragon's replacements, I think) and a recent leak check said no leaks. Still should do ?
If the lines hold pressure, don't replacem them! What I do suggest is gutting and replacing ALL the seal grommets + Schrader valves in the system using fresh, quality refrigeration grade components (might cost you a whooping $3 extra for refrigeration vs. automotive grade). Then, when you reconnect the various lines with fresh seals do NOT over-torque the fittings...a 'squashed' seal is no better than a used/aged one!
I think replacing the hoses is optional if they look good and you haven't had any problems with refrigerent loss.
My hoses looked fine but they tended to leak at the connections, even when I tightened the clamps. I think the problem was that the rubber had become hard and inflexible. The main reason that I mentioned replacing the hoses when you have your compressor rebuilt is that it is a convenient time, since the refrigerent will be out anyway.
If you do decide to keep your existing hoses, I suggest that you leave them attached to the manifold on the back of the compressor and simply unbolt the manifold to get the compressor out. That way you won't have to disturb the existing hose connections. Even if the hose connections don't leak now, they will probably leak if you pull the hoses off the manifold and then try to reuse them. In fact, you probably won't be able to pull them off without splitting them with a razor blade. There are several raised rings on the pipes at the hose connections, and they firmly retain the hoses.
By the way, if you do decide to replace the hoses and you need to split the hoses to get them off, be VERY careful not to let your razor blade touch the metal pipe. The aluminum is very soft and the blade will easily cut into the sealing surface. After I split my hoses and damaged the sealing surface, I noticed a warning in the shop manual about this, along with a photo showing the proper way to cut the hoses. I spent some time trying to smooth out the sealing surfaces on my pipes, and so far there are no leaks, but it would have been better to avoid damaging them in the first place.
One more thing about Classic Auto Air. I used them for my rebuild and they seem to be knowledgable and competent, but their customer interface is poor. Each time I called I got a different person, and if I left voice mail for the manager of the rebuild department (Curtis) he did not return my calls. So far the work they did seems fine, but they were not as easy to deal with as most other suppliers I have used for rebuilding other components.
Thanks Joe. My lines do seem rather stiff compared to new ones (understandable) bu I have been able to bend them for motor removal with no apparent problems. I did disconnect the manifold behind the compressor and shipped the compressor and drier off to Classic Auto Air this AM - thanks for the heads up. I'll do my best to reach Curtis if I need to. They take a while - 6 week turn around !
We use cookies to deliver our services, and to analyze site activity. We do not share or sell any personal information about our users. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Tweet
Comment