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I was installing new mufflers when I notice my fuel tank has a small perforation. I removed all the gas butI am now wondering if it can be repaired while still in the car. Does it need to be removed and repaired or should I replace the tank. How difficult is it to remove the tank? Any help would be much appreciated. The car is a 64 convertible. Thanks again.
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Re: HELP!
Hi Charles,
Is the pin hole due to rust, dent or chaffing?
I'd drop the tank and take it to a reputable repair facility and have them inspect the tank.
Also be very careful with that empty tank, the danger of fire is at it's peak with all those fumes.
Chuck -
Re: HELP!
Chuck, thanks for the reply, I think it is due to rust. when I llooked in the tank it looks like there are some small areas of rust in the bottm. No dents or chaffing as far as I can tell.Thanks for the warning about the fumes. I have been very carefull. How difficult is it to drop the tank? I see a cross bar which seems to support it. It appears to be bolted to the frame. If I drop that will the tank come down or is it more involved? This is very frustrating since I was about to put the car back on the road. Just repainted and got it back together. Oh well I guess that's what happens with old cars. Thanks again.Comment
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Re: HELP!
if you have under car exhaust i think you will need to remove one or both mufflers to extract the tank---also i would replace the tank and save the old one for the next owner---good luckComment
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Re: HELP!
Corvette Central has a tank repair kit. Does anyone have a experience or know if it is any good?Comment
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Re: HELP!
I've never used one of the repair kits, but the best place to take it would be a radiator repair shop. They can also put a liner in it to stop any further rust. The rust will come back if you don't.Comment
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Re: HELP!
Thanks for all your help, I decided to buy a new tank. It was $140 so I figured it was easier. Could anyone give me some directions on how to remove the tank. I know there must be some little tricks that you guys would be privy to.Comment
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Re: HELP!
I will assume ( yeah a bad word) that your 64 is setup similar to my 68.
If so, you have the support bar with two bolts at each end. I'd loosen all four bolts, and only remove one at each end at this time.
If your currently replacing the exhaust system, your money ahead as I would remove both mufflers and exhaust pipes in the drop area.
The two straps that hold the tank in place are hooked into the front support bar, wrap up and over the tank and are bolted though the rear crossmember. They will undoubtably need a good dose of W-D 40 and some effort to get them to free up
My car has an overflow tube connected to the overfill/rain boot that's around the fill neck on top of the tank that runs down behind one of the rear bumperettes. When you start to drop the tank, you should be able to get to the drain hose connections. Maybe you can get to it now for all I know, but be aware of it.
If you have a two line fuel system, a vent line will be coming off the top of the tank as well as the main fuel line. I'd pinch off the line with some vise grips on the tank side cut the hose half way between and thread a slightly larger bolt into the end still connected to the tank and worry about getting the lines off when the tank is setting on the floor.
And of course the sending unit wiring needs to be popped off and moved safely out of the way.
Now take out the remaining bolts to the support bar and both the tank and support should drop down.
Then it's a matter of gently working it around to figure out the best angle/position to cleanly drop the assembly down between the frame.
Things to inspect or replace.
1) If the lines are still in one piece look original or aged, definately upgrade to new generation rubber lines that are designed to work with the new fuel blends.
2) If the hold down straps are severly rusted, don't chance it, replacements are not that expensive for something this important.
3) Condition of the ani-squeek material on the tank.
4) Sending unit O-ring and mesh screen on the pickup
5) Overfill/rain boot
Good luck with it,
ChuckComment
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Re: HELP!
Thanks Chuck, I removed the tank last night. Pain in the butt. Turned out, I needed to remove the exhaust mounting brackets because they kept the tank from coming down. Of course I broke the brackets bolts. The tank had several other perforations so it's good that I ordered a new one.Comment
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Re: Good Deal
The General really knew how to pack a lot of #*&@ into a small package didn't he?
Glad you got it out without too many mechanical casualties
ChuckComment
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Re: Good Deal
Charles -
When you get the new tank, check it before you install it to make sure that the weld seam flange is bent down at the four locations where the straps pass by the flange like it is on the original tank; some of the reproduction tanks don't have those bends in the flange, and it makes it VERY difficult to install the straps. Replace the filler neck gasket too.Comment
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Re: Thanks Chuck and Jack
Any other little tidbits about reinstallation. I figure if getting it down was a pain in the a$$ then reinstallation must be worse.I think I ate about a pound of dirt pulling it out. I couldnt believe it still had the original overflow hose with spring.Comment
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