I have a 1965 327/365 hp which has solid lifters. The shop manual prints only half the directions to adjust. I have read several other manuals and they all list different procedures. I thought adjusting solid lifters was rather simple. I could use some advice on proper procedures.
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Re: adjust solid lifters.
The process I use is pretty simple, get the engine warm, then pull both valve covers and the coil wire. Use a remote starting switch connected from the battery posotive to the purple wire at the connector in the center of the firewall. Use the remote switch to bump the engine over while watching the valves on a particular cylinder. When the exhaust just starts to open, set the intake. when the intake has just closed, set the exhaust. Just work your way around the engine while it's still hot and you'll be done in no time. No special tricks to remember, just pay attention to which is the intake and which is the exhaust and you won't go wrong. -
Re: adjust solid lifters.
I always mark my harmonic balancer at 90 degrees, 180 degrees, 245 degrees, and TDC (0 degrees and already marked). I adjust the lash with the engine cold and plugs removed. A socket wrench on the balancer retainer cap screw allows me to position the crank. Adjustment is "duck soup".
Varooom!Comment
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Re: adjust solid lifters.
Chris, glad to hear you have a 365 horser. I put the same short block ($250.00) in my first car a 61 corvette in the late 60's and it made that old 283 feel small.
I used to adjust the valves with the engine at ops temp and running with rocker clips on each rocker arm. One valve cover off at a time .030"int.030" exh.. Infact my 69 302 Z/28 had the same cam and I set it hot and running with clips on at "slowest idle possible".
Now that I think of it I set my LT-1,L-78 ,LS-6 and L-71 with the clips on engines hot and slow idle also. Only time I did my valves cold was with a degreed and balancer roller rockers on race engines.
I'm sure there are other NCRS members that still do it the old way and I think the factory suggested this to be done hot and running after they left the plant and it may have been stated in the shop manuals.
I'm looking in my 67 owners manual on page 52 it says, valve spec's, solid lifters: Intake .024"(Hot)clearance and Exhaust .028" (Hot) clearance. Keep in mind I have a L-71.Take a look in your owners manual. Your valves should say the same but setting on both Int/Ex @ .030" (hot). If you have the stock 327/365 hp cam.
If you can't get or don't have any clips don't do it hot or you will make a mess.I've been doing this way for over 30+ years and have it down to a science so you may want to do it another way.grr#33570Comment
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Re: adjust solid lifters.
i posted before how to set the valves with 2 setting of the engine,TDC #1 and TDC #6. i will repost if needed.Comment
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It's tricky with the 30-30 or LT-1 cams
There are probably as many methods of adjusting solid lifters as there are guys with solid lifter cams, and the 30-30 and LT-1 cams are tricky, because of their very long clearance ramps. At TDC on the compression/power stroke the exhaust ramp has already started, so you can start at TDC and do #1 inlet and #8 exhaust, then rotate 90 degrees and do #8 inlet and #4 exhaust, and continue this pattern according to the 18436572 firing order. Or you can go with Clups method, which will also work.
I have measured clearance both hot and cold and it is basically the same. The thermal expansion rate of the steel pushrod is pretty close to the cast iron head, and the valve stem doesn't get that hot because 80 percent of the heat is transferred through the seat.
Another thing to remember is that the clearance spec is for the "theoretical" 1.5:1 rocker arm ratio, but on a production engine they are actually about 1.38 at the end of the ramp and 1.44 at max lift, so if you set them at .028" cold you will be at the end of the ramp. If the clearance tightens up during hard running, your still have plenty of margin and the valves will hit the seat at clearance ramp velocity. You're better off being a couple of thou tight than loose. If the clearance is such that the valves are seated before the end of the ramp the valve train should not make much noise. A lot of lifter ticking means they are too loose, and loose valves will accelerate seat erosion, because the valves are hitting the seat too fast.
Duke
DukeComment
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