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Some of my 65's ignition shielding has some pitting and rust. Where/who/what is the way to fix these and still have the parts match the look of my parts which are stock (and still good) ? It's not a chrome so I don't know how to "re-do" them.
You did not identify the pieces that have pitting/rust or if your goal is judging or a more presentable engine compartment for driving.
The distributor cover and the two left (driver's side) horizontals are stainless steel if OEM. They can be cleaned up nicely with one of the common paste metal polishes like Semichrome. Other pieces are plain carbon steel with a rather thin chrome plating. Not much you can do there except replate. Reproductions are readily available, but some decent originals can be found at swap meets or Driveline that would have vintage 'patina' look.
The RH aft horizontals often get pitted by battery acid or perhaps fumes. That seems to be the hardest original to find in good shape. The L and R verticals were still available through GM not too many years ago -- maybe still? The boomerangs on the engine block take a beating, too. If your motor mounts have been replaced, finding correct boomerangs can be problematic.
Thanks Jeff. These pieces (vertical wire guards and lower pieces around plugs) did have some pitting and scratches and that's why I (and regret it) had these pieces chromed. Car is not top flight but I just rebuilt the motor and thought I should "improve" them. I should have done my homework because they don't close to matching the original pieces like my distrib cover - they truly look bad. I guess my only option is to find replacements. Live and learn.
It's not possible to remove the chrome and "fix" them ?
(1) Etched away via immersion in a pickling bath.
(2) Removed by reverse polarity plating.
Route number one is typically the way plater's go because it can be done at any time. BUT, it often leaves pit due to uneven etching requiring the parts to be re-polished.
Route number two is fast and gentle, but few platters offer that method because in addition to chrome coming off the part, you'll generate dirt, nickle and cooper to the plater's chromium electrolyte bath which contaminates it. Those platers who WILL discuss removing prior chrome via electromotive methods with you, typically want you to leave the part(s) with them so they can run them at the END of their chrominum electrolyte's useful life...just before they change out the electrolyte for a fresh/new bath.
Thanks Jack. Do either of these options allow you to eventually end up with the OEM look (some parts stainless steel and others with a thin chrome - see email below from Jeff). Assuming I can find someone willing to do one of these options in removing the chrome, is it then possible to get the stainless and plain carbon steel parts back to the right look ?
Jeff (7732) mentioned that "the two left (driver's side) horizontals are stainless steel if OEM. They can be cleaned up nicely with one of the common paste metal polishes like Semichrome. Other pieces are plain carbon steel with a rather thin chrome plating. Not much you can do there except re-plate"
(Note: The parts I messed up are the two verticle pieces going from the distrib shield down, and several lightly-chromed horizontal shields around the plugs).
Time to buy new parts ? New stuff (Paragon, etc) any good ?
I am not familiar with the reproduction shielding parts or what kind of finish to expect if you strip your parts by reverse polarity. If a brightener such as Ni was used as a plating layer, suspect it might be difficult to regain the original look.
OEM LH horizontals were ever-so-slightly different for '63-'65 model years & '66-'67 when the size of the notched cutout section was increased a little to clear the exhaust manifolds. Similarly, OEM RH '64-'65 RH and '66-'67 differed with the latter having larger notched cutouts. I doubt if the repro stuff follows such small changes. My guess is that repro would all have the larger notches to thus avoiding any interference.
Regarding the verticals -- OEM LH are common '64-'67 as are RH '63-'67.
Personally, I'd look for nice originals at swaps or in the Driveline before buying reproductions or attempting to strip chrome.
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