Rear Rotor Removal

[Jeff Gunn #29146]

Hi all, I am trying to remove my rear brake rotors so that I can them turned as part of a complete suspension/brake job. I drilled out the rivets with a large enough diameter drill bit to get the heads off, but leave some material in so I don't drill into the rotor itself by accident. I assume that an axle puller is required to pull the rotor off the hub. I borrowed one from AutoZone but it is too small. Before I go back down there and try to find another one I wanted to see if there was some trick that I was missing here... Can someone enlighten me? Should I just use a larger drill bit and not worry about the rotor material? Thanks! Jeff


Jeff's '74 Corvette Restoration Project

[Rich Garguilo #33425]

Re: Rear Rotor Removal

Jeff,The rotor slides off the wheel studs on the rear brakes.First make sure you have the rivet heads drilled off then tap the rotor with a rubber mallet or block of wood.Also make sure the parking brake is released.Good luck!

[John Hames]

Re: Rear Rotor Removal but first did you?

Be sure to mark the rotor, so you know exactly which stud fits which hole. If not your rotor can cause the brakes to temporarily lose your brake pedal.

Just a thought to keep in mind

[Jeff Gunn #29146]

Re: Rear Rotor Removal Solution

First, thanks to John and Rich for their advice. The solution to my problem was to use a piece of wood and a hammer as John suggested and they came right off. I also marked the two sides and their rotation relative to the hub as Rich suggested. Thanks to the NCRS Discussion Board! Now back to work for me.... Jeff


Jeff's '74 Corvette Restoration Project

[Patrick H.]

Rear Rotor WARNING

Jeff,

Remember that if you turn the rotors WITHOUT having them attached to the spindle, you are more likely than not going to screw up your runout and cause more problems than you fix. There are oodles of threads in the archives on this one, and as Joe L is gone I thought I'd voice one of his favorite warnings.

The rotor and spindle need to be EXACTLY perpendicular for your brakes to work at their best, and if separated they lose this relationship. Returning the rotor to its original spot may help, but as is was turned off the spindle and more than likely not at the entirely correct angle, while you have gained a good looking rotor you have lost proper braking geometry. All the recognized spindle rebuilders turn the rotor ON the spindle to avoid this. The resultant runout from having a rotor machined at the wrong angle may cause braking problems you'll be chasing for a long time. Or, you may be lucky.

Good Luck,

Patrick Hulst