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There are no bushings, per se, used in the shifter. It is possible, though, to obtain shifter parts enabling you to perform a rebuild. However, my strong recommendation is that you just purchase a new reproduction shifter. I've found that after shifter rebuild, operation is often still not fully satisfactory. Sometimes, it's even worse in certain ways than it was prior to rebuild.
If you want as-new shifter performance, your best bet is a new shifter.
I think that all of the shifters on the market are from the same manufacturing source. In fact, every one I've seen appears identical to the originals, so I think that they're likely manufactured by the same folks that made them for GM.
Corvette Central has them for $219. I just found one on ebay for 180.00. You are correct about them being the same. The pictures used are all identical. Are they a big deal to replace?
No big deal to replace, just a PITA with scraped knuckles. Just make sure you have your GM Service Manual for the linkage adjustment and the dimensions on the shifter linkage tool. This is a fairly simple DIY job, just complicated by the tight working space.
You need to find out where your "slop" is. It may be in the arms/transmission, rods/arms, loose attachment to the transmission and lastly in the shifter itself. In fact, compared to a Hurst, a new GM shifter will feel sloppy. I personally prefer the GM shifter.
If your reverse lockout "t" handle rattles, it can be fixed or at least made not as annoying. My advice is, if the thing shifts good, don't lock in two gears at once and the shifter buzz isn't too bad, spend the coin on something more pressing.
It's hard to tell what you're trying to fix by your post.
When you adjust the shift linkage, you insert this "tool" into the slot in the gear levers, once they have been aligned in the neutral position. I am now relying on memory but in some years (including yours?) the tool is a locating pin that keeps the linkage from moving while you adjust the rods. The pin MAY be as simple as a 1/8" drill bit, for the proper diameter. Again, this is from REALLY FUZZY memory so consult the 64 Chassis Service Manual. On my current 72, the tool is a piece of flat metal stock, maybe 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick. I don't know if parts and catalog houses sell the tool but they take a few minutes to fabricate.
When I replaced the Hurst shifter on my 66 with a repro unit, it took me the better part of an afternoon since I also had to install new repro shift rods and adjust. For someone like me that had never done this before, I was pleased with the simple job this really was.
Gary
It's a part similar to a 'feeler gauge' that you insert to hold the shift lever in a pre-defined location while you adjust the individual rods to line up with the transmission's individual shift levers. Typically, the tool and its useage is described in the shop manual and there's often a skeleton outline provided for mechanics to hand fabricate the tool themselves.
But, those who routinely work on these cars know the 'look/feel' of a correctly aligned installation and go by seat of the pants method vs. using the alignment tool. Reading your copy of the shop manual will help you better understand the tool and its use...
The dimensions for the gage tool are in the Chassis Service Manual - you can make one from a tongue depressor or a piece of aluminum. Once you understand how the shifter works, they're not that difficult to rebuild; I have an article on rebuilding the Muncie shifter coming in the January '08 issue of "Corvette Enthusiast" magazine, which will be out at the end of October. The rebuild kit from Corvette Central includes two different thicknesses of interlock plates so you can set it up nice and tight, even with worn selector plates.
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