My 61 had some really bad front springs which I changed a few months ago. Before I replaced them, the left side front sat noticeably lower. My wife kept telling me that the left side was still low, and I got a measuring tape tonight and checked it out. She was right. The body, depending on where you measure is about 1/2-3/4" lower on the left front. No decernable difference in the rear. I measaured the front suspension height at the inner control arm bushings, and they are real close to the same height. This car had the body off the frame about 20 years ago, and the shop that did the frame off did some things pretty well and some other things not so well. If the body is not properly shimmed on the frame could it cause this problem? How can I tell if this is the case? What about where the body is attached to the radiator support? Could this be a problem area? I've never done a frame-off, so I'm sort of in the dark here. Any guidance would be appreciated.
61 "listing to port"
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Previous collision damage?
I don't think improper shimming could make this much difference in body height. The shims are used to "take up slack" at the mounting points, not to level a twisted body.
Please tell us more about the fiberglass on your car. Have any of the factory panels been replaced? The position of the wheelwells where they attach to the front fenders is critical in getting a proper gap around the hood. This relationship also makes a world of difference in keeping all four headlights at the same level. Also, it could be that the chassis spring tower on the low side has been bent back slightly. This would give your car a lean toward that side.- Top
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Re: Previous collision damage?
Dale and Jerry, The spindle holder will only go in one way(with everything else still fitting), and it appears to be just like the one on the other side.However, anything is possible. I'll look a little closer.Other than a bit of stress crack repair around the headlights, I don't see evidence of any body damage. There ceratinly hasn't been any major body panel replacement. Now, there IS some evidence of body damage on the right side door area. Here's another thing that's going on. The passenger door has a wider gap at the top rear than the left one. I can shim up the right rear body mount and close the gap quite a bit, but when I do, the car is noticeably tilting to the left. Took the shims back out and am resigned to living with the wider gap. It's about 1/4" too wide. (wider at top than bottom,too) If the problem is suspension related, should I not be able to measure a difference at the suspension? Where should I measure? Will also check shock towers.- Top
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Home measurements are tough
Ed -
I'm sure you can figure out measurement points to check at home, but actually taking those measurements is difficult. Most concrete garage floors are slightly wavey. Also, stretching a tape between two points is sometimes impossible because of chassis interferences.
Is there a local body shop with a modern frame machine that will work with you? Most intermediate size shops have these machines now because new vehicles are unibody constructed. Wrecks must be pulled straight in many cases. Even slight misalignment of the passenger compartment must be fixed before fenders and doors will fit properly. Body panel alignment tolerances are much tighter than 40 years ago.
Anyway, checks made by a good operator using a modern frame machine will quickly tell you whether the problem is frame, suspension, or body related. I would think $100 of a professional's time would tell you everything you needed to know.- Top
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Re: 61 "listing to port"
Ed, My fist car was a 61 and what I did was install these screw in 1/2" socket drive cam shaped swivels. Usually about 1" or so squared but that was back in the late 1960s. I'm sure they have other insertable spring stiffenders or expansion joints available now. I used to pick up mine at the local speed shop. Maybe Summit,Jegs or equal have what you need. Simple to install and your off on the road again.grr#33570- Top
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Re: 61 "listing to port"
My old worn out springs had "helpers" in them. They were not adjustable. I'm not sure at thisa point whether the suspension is down on that side or if the body is not straightr on the frame. Possible, I guess, that the frame is twisted. I might give that a try as a tempoary fix. Wonder if it would affect the handling of the car, not that I'm going out racing in it or anything.- Top
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Re: CHEATING! that's the 60's
Dale, you caught me, but you know it works when you need to be ready. I was a kid of 18 back in 67 and my 61 wasn't (283 c.i) much to blow away other than I had a set of 4.11 going for me. Well I changed that, $250.00 for a 327/365 horser crate motor (short block).Was like an LS-6 compared to the 283. This included headers of course.
The the world of sreet racing changed from struggles to no contests. But when I needed a quick fix to get on the street or strip I found out. Just trying to help the guy.
Dale, any comment on my Post about body cusion installations. One thing I did leave out of that post was going (I hope) pre-loosen all bolts before trying anything in case r of a trip wire on one.grr#33570- Top
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Re: 61 "listing to port"
Ed, if yu use just one for a slight adjustment I don't see much problem. We used to use a minimum of 2 all the way up the coils. I had a friend with a 65 Red GTO that had that car sitting up like a 4X4. It did look good but his car drove rough and didn't corner as well. This back when 65 goats were only acouple years old and each car had it's own look.
They have better items to use now but I wouldn't go wild like my friend did and I sorta did. Back then cars were part of our lives.grr#33570- Top
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Re: Are you sure the other side isn't too high?
It is what after market traction bars are to help prevent.When under hard acceleration or laying rubber,the rear springs will sometimes twist themselves into a "s" shaped pattern as the rear end housing tries to wrap around it's self.- Top
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