AC Conversion

[Erv M.]

I can not find anyone to service by 69 AC unit. They all want to convert it to the new refrigerant. If I do the conversion the connectors are different, will I get dinged for points?

Any good advice concerning?

[Harmon C.]

Re: AC Conversion

Erv

I have not seen a deduction for the wrong refrigerant but any change that can be seen will get a deduction.

Lyle

[David A.]

Re: AC Conversion

My advise to you, is do everything you can to find someone to service your A/C
with refrigerant R-12. Your air will not be the same with refrigerant R-134a.
The condeser will not reject the heat as efficently with R-134a as it will with
R-12

[Lyndon S.]

[Jim T.]

Re: AC Conversion

Erv check out new car dealerships to see if they service R12 systems. I believe the local Goodyear service facility was offering R12 service, but that may have changed. Check your parts store like NAPA that send trucks out loaded with ordered parts to repair facilities and see who they are selling R12 to. Another option is buy a set of pressure guages and learn how to do it your self. I have always installed R12 in my 1970 except one time when I replaced the dryer and had to have vacuum pulled on the system. My 1970 has to have have R12 added every year. I use the sight glass at the top of the dryer as a reliable indicator to tell me know it is low. I added R12 using the sight glass as an indicator to tell me when to quit adding. At normal operating temp if I saw bubbles the R12 was low. I would add R12 through the sight glass until I saw the bubbles disappear. If you have front seal leakage you might seek out a service facility that has the type of system that will remove your R12 and oil, measures the oil removed and installs new correct amount of oil and R12. I did not know this could be done until I had my 1985 Corvette's system serviced and watched the serviceman do the complete job. This was done years ago (93-94) and still works very well with still using R12. Another place to check is truck repair facilities, there may be still a lot of trucks running the roads that have R12 systems.

[Jack H.]

This is typical of auto A/C shops...

They're only licensed to handle R12 and R134 and they all want to convert everything they see to R134.

Now, professional HVAC trademen are licensed to handle any/all refrigerants, including the 'exotics' and there ARE drop-in R12 substitutes. BUT, most of these guys presume it's a 'lowly' automotive job and don't want to deal with you.

However, if you explain you've got a CLASSIC car project that wants to be factory original and you're willing to pay their standard labor rates up front in the conversation, you can get a receptive welcome! These guys are used to traveling to the job site (grocery store, liquor store, Etc.) and when you consider the labor mark-up from major auto service shops (Goodyear/Firestone), they can actually be CHEAPER in the long run.

The drawback to going this route, is once you've installed an exotic refrigerant in your system, you really can't take it for service at a conventional auto AC shop... On the other hand, instead of $45-60/pound for R12, these exotics can cost as little as $2-6/pound. With a 4-pound system, that's a few bucks in saving!!!

[Gregory G.]

Get your license and do it your self

If you keep your eyes open and watch Ebay you can fing 30lb cans under $200. I purchased three that way. The best deal is to find someone close to you that does not want to ship (shipping R12 is expensive). You can get your MACS license for $15 with an online test. That is all you need to purchase R12. Buy some gauges and a vacuum pump. You will be able to buy it all for less then it will cost you to get it serviced and have lots of R12 for the future.
Here is the link for the MACS manual and test info.
http://www.macsw.org/certification.php

Good luck!

[David A.]

Re: AC Conversion

Erv
Be careful of what you buy when in comes to R-12. There are people selling used, "recovered" or "reclaimed" refrigerant. Recovered is removed from a system. Reclaimed is removed and recycled by an approved method to be resold.

On the recovered side is where you should be concerned. R-12 that has been subjected to moisture or hermetic burnout (comp. with internal elec. motor that burnt out)can have acid as a result of these exposures.

At one time I know there was a lot of R-12 coming through Mexico, I would watch out for that. If the label is in a foriegn language its a crap shoot.

Some of the replacements require your refrigerant oil to be changed like
R-134a. The "drop in's" are blends of differant refrigerants to achieve R-12 like BTU ratings and like presures. If your system leaks, you will likely upset the blend ratio. Creating the need to recover and recharge your whole system.

Most tradesman are licensed to buy lager quanities and may not be able to purchase 1Lbs. cans
For example, I am a Union Pipefitter with a universal CFC license. The smallest amount I can buy is 25Lbs.

I would sure think someone in your NCRS chapter would be able to steer you in the right direction, If you asked.

Happy Labor Day!!!!!!!!

[Dennis Voiro]

Re: AC Conversion

Since we are on this topic, can anyone recommend a person or facility in the Southern New Jersey or Philadelphia area that can repair my A/C compressor, front seal is bad. 1969 vintage unit. Thanks!

[Jack H.]

Re: AC Conversion

Replacing the front seal on an A-6 compressor is about the easiest job there is (compared to a complete overhaul). The step-by-step instructions are in your copy of the Chassis Service Manual, but you WILL need special tools to get the clutch off and access the existing front shaft seal/bearing....

Some say the job can be done 'on car', but I've found working conditions too cramped and have bitten the bullet to R&R the compressor and work on it on-bench. Also, when you go to buy a replacement seal kit, there are two forms: (1) the original sintered metal design, and (2) the improved ceramic design.

The ceramic seal is MUCH superior in terms of durability and it only costs a few dollars more! Typical prices are something like $8 for sintered metal and $12 for ceramic. I STRONGLY suggest you get the ceramic seal.

If you don't feel comfortable doing the overhaul yourself (or don't want to buy the special tools), I'd just make a few phone calls to local auto A/C shops and/or machine shops. You'll quickly find a 'good ole boy' in your neck of the woods who still have the special tools in his crib + the knowledge to do the job. The A-6 compressor was a long lived work horse that MANY did front seal/bearing change outs on...