1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

[Joe Lucia (12484)]

I hope someone here can help refresh my memory on this one. As some of you know, the GM #3956119 fan shroud is difficult to install on the above referenced applications. The primary problem is interference with the right side upper control arm. As I recall, the best way to install the shroud is to remove or partially remove the right side upper control arm.

What I'm interested in is whether other folks have found it best to completely remove the arm or whether something less than that is sufficient?

This car is not equipped with C-60, so that "complication" is not involved.

[Jim Trekell (22375)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

Joe I have done this a few times on my 70 350/300 which has air. In order to remove the large fan shroud I would place a floor jack under the control arm on the passenger side and lift enough to remove the tire and remove the tire. I would lower the floor jack to make it easier to work over the fender and remove the two nuts securing the upper control arm and remove the shims, tape them and number the taped shims in order to install in the correct location later. Does not have to be done but makes it easier if the bolt is knocked out closest to the engine to remove the control arm and just pull it back into the the wheelwell. This has always allowed me to remove the fan shroud. After the fan shroud is out I would knock out the other control arm bolt just to make it easier to install the control arm later. Having air conditioning is not a problem to remove the shroud, however having air conditioning is why my 70 has the big radiator and shroud.

[Joe Lucia (12484)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

Jim-----

Thanks for the assistance. It's not clear to me, though, if you remove the upper ball stud from the front spindle as part of the process. You didn't mention that in your post.

[Greg Linton (45455)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

Well Joe I have only done this once and it was about 15 years ago but what I ended up doing was removing the hood and the three rad support to inner fender bolts on each side and then loosen the two lower rad support bolts. I did all this so that I could "tilt" the top of the rad support forward enough to provide the required clearance to remove the shroud. It actually worked quite well but it was a bit stressful making sure that none of the paint got damaged with the hood R&R.

I never even thought to touch the control arm or it's hardware but maybe that would have been a better option as I see others have gone that route with their shroud R&R.

[Joe Lucia (12484)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

Greg-----

Yes, what I'm trying to determine is which is easier----the radiator support "tilt" method or the control arm "removal" method.

[Wayne Womble (5569)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

Neither way is particularly easy, but removing the upper control is not that difficult. I have made a tool out of a cut off vise grip that will fit over the stud and clamp to the tower. This allows pressure to be put on the stud. Remove the upper ball joint and raise the arm. A long punch hammered near the bolt head will release the stud. I completely remove the upper arm. No need to remove the spring etc. just the upper arm.

[Joe Lucia (12484)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

Wayne-----

Thanks. A few questions:

1) The improvised tool that you describe, is that used to press out the control arm studs as an alternative to driving them out with a hammer?

2) If the arm is disconnected at the ball joint, isn't it possible to just remove the arm without even driving out the control arm studs?

[Verle Randolph (14764)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

Joe,

If you will look in your right wheelwell for the radiator support bolts I think you will find the upper bolt is covered by a fiberglass channel that covers the A/C lines where they run around the radiator support.

To tilt the support you will have to remove or "alter" the fiberglass channel for access to the bolt.

Verle

[Wayne Womble (5569)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

The stud that is nearest the shroud is almost impossible to drive out from that direction because of the shroud being so close to it. The tool just applies pressure on the end, so a few shocks with the punch near the head on the inside will loosen the stud. Then it is easy to remove the control arm.

[Norris Wallace (6139)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

Car "IS NOT" equipped with C60.

I've always yanked the hood and loosened the core support to tilt it foward. I can't imagine that upper A-arm removal is easier, but sure worth a look. I'm still confused on what goes on with the cut off vice grips though. I've re-read it a couple of times and still don't get it.

[Dick Whittington (8804)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

Joe, without C-60 it is a cake walk to tilt the core support forward to remove/replace fan shroud. With C-60 it is some what of a pain in the patuuy. I have done it both ways and prefer the tilting of the core support. It just seems faster for me.

[Harmon Chamberlain (24961)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

Joe
I agree with Dick. On A/C cars I pull the vacumn cans and leave the a-arm in place.

Lyle

[Verle Randolph (14764)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

I agree with Dick and Lyle, without A/C it is easy to tilt the core support.

Verle

[Jim Trekell (22375)]

Re: 1969-72 Big Block Fan Shround Installation

I don't do anything with the upper ball joint, it is left alone. With the floor jack under the lower control arm there is no pressure on the upper control arm and it is very easy to move back into the wheelwell. Have the factory cover over bolt/bolts for the radiator support, so have never entertained moving this piece. Having removed my 70's radiator a few times in the last 37 years the unbolting of the upper control arm is pretty much just routine and not all that much trouble for me. Once tested unbolting the drivers side control arm, does not work.