Any trick to doing these? It looks like the screw could fall into the door interior when the mounting nut is removed? Can anyone shed any light on this?
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
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Re: C3 Side View Mirror Gasket Replacement
Christopher,
I see from your profile that you have a '76 model. That should still have the chrome style mirror. After removing the allen screw at the mirror stem base, the actual mounting bracket will still be attached to the door. The hard plastic molded gasket just sits in place over the mounting base. It's not attached to the mounting bracket. -
Re: C3 Side View Mirror Gasket Replacement
Set screw goes through a mirror mounting plate that's essentially T-shaped with the base of the plate held to the door via two screws, through the door's fiberglass and into weld nuts mounted inside the door. The base of the mirror locks to the mounting plate with a set screw that's perpendicular to the mirror's lower shaft.
Once the set screw is removed and the mirror is off its mounting plate, you can remove the mounting plate screws and freely remove the mounting plate + gasket. The weld nut assy on the inside of the door is bonded to the door's fiberglass and will remain in place....Comment
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Re: C3 Side View Mirror Gasket Replacement
Don't know about your 1976 mirror, but to remove the side rear view mirror to replace the plastic gasket there are no mounting nuts, just two screws to hold the base plate and one screw to secure the mirror to the base plate on my 68 and 70.Comment
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Re: C3 Side View Mirror Gasket Replacement
So,on my 77 that has no pass. side mirror,can I simply use bolts tom fasten the "plate" to the door then attach mirror.I do want a pass. side mirror.Comment
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Re: C3 Side View Mirror Gasket Replacement
I don't know the current parts availability, but at one time (when your Corvette was new) there was a kit to install the right-hand mirror. It contained the mirror, base, and fastening hardware. The base attaching fasteners included rubber encased nuts (I don't know the right term for these pieces) and a locating template. Drill the right size holes in the door (close to 1/2-inch) using the template to locate them and install the rubber-covered nut. This is a rubber barrel shaped piece with a brass nut inside. When the screw is installed and tightened in the nut the rubber expands and the nut, bracket and screw are locked into the fiberglass skin of the door.
It has been way too long for me to have the part number for this kit. Those nuts are used to attach auxiliary trailering mirrors to trucks and roof-racks to all kinds of vehicles, so they ought to be available in a variety of sizes to match the threads of the fasteners, if the kit is no longer available.TerryComment
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Terminology = 'Well Nuts'.... *NM*
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Re: Terminology = 'Well Nuts'....
I kept thinking weld nuts and I knew that made no sense -- plus those are something else. Anyway a brain f(*t was why I bailed on the exact terminology. Thanks Jack for the help.TerryComment
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BTW...
I didn't like the way even the low profile/thin lipped version of the well nut (like those used to mount luggage racks) held the dealer optional RH exterior mirror on my car (loose and slighly 'floppy'). So, I cut a piece of stock steel plate, drilled and tapped it, and mounted it on the bottom side of the RH door skin to mirror the factory installation of the LH mirror.
A pretty easy job and the mirror mounts rock hard like it does on the driver's side. Yes, well nuts are an easy solution, but....Comment
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Re: BTW...
Good improvement over the GM kit. The loose RH mirror is an annoyance, however it does compliment the original floppy LH mirror on late 1969 and 1970 Corvettes.TerryComment
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