Radiator capacity-1963-1967 small block - NCRS Discussion Boards

Radiator capacity-1963-1967 small block

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  • Paul Cantin #15830

    Radiator capacity-1963-1967 small block

    The all aluminum cross flow radiator (part number 3155316) has a capacity of 16.5 quarts including the heater core.

    DeWitt Radiator's 100% correct production (licensed by General Motors) claims a capacity of 3.3 lt. or approximately 3.5 quarts.

    Can some one please explain where the other 13 quarts of coolant are?
  • Dale Pearman

    #2
    Re: Radiator capacity-1963-1967 small block

    Look on the floor underneath the reproduction, GM licensed radiator!

    The Rev.

    Comment

    • Wayne M.
      Expired
      • March 1, 1980
      • 6414

      #3

      Comment

      • Dale Pearman

        #4
        SERIOUSLY

        16.5 quarts of coolant is more that 4 gallons! I can't EVER remember putting that much coolant in my 62! (unless ya want to count the time I left the pet-cock open! Then I put in about 15 gallons before I realized what I had done!) I think the 16.5 quart spec. is wrong!

        The Rev.

        Comment

        • Andy Anderson

          #5
          Re: Radiator capacity-1960 small block

          I just filled a new sys. with Dewitt's radiator. It took a little over 16.5 quarts. This includes the heads, block, heater core, and all the hoses.

          Comment

          • Iron Duke NCRS #22045

            #6
            Cooling system capacity

            I think the specified cooling system capacity is the "dry fill" capacity. When changing coolant there is probably at least a quart that is trapped after the radiator and block drains run dry. I think this applies to most cars as I have never been able to install the specified capacity of coolant in any car.

            Duke

            Comment

            • Paul Cantin #15830

              #7
              Re: SERIOUSLY

              Dale,

              The 16.5 quarts is what is listed in the 1967 Chevrolet Specifications Sheet I received from G.M.

              It is also stated in Adam's book an page 84 and in Newton's book on page 89.

              I had a conversation with Tom DeWitt yesterday because my l967 300H.P. with automatic and air conditioning is still overheating after installing his radiator.

              He claims the l6.5 quarts must be a misprint -- You seem to share his claim.

              Response from Andy Anderson and Wayne Midkiff say the additional 13 quarts is in the heads, block, and hoses.

              Is this a fact?

              The specifications sheet also say the surge tank has a capacity of 2.3 quarts.

              Tom DeWitt also questioned this capacity.

              What are your thoughts?

              Comment

              • Dale Pearman

                #8
                Re: SERIOUSLY

                Most of he coolant in the radiator resides in the side tanks. The core passages hold very little. Somewhere around a gallon, (little less) is what my 62's take.The expansion tank is good for at least a quart & 3/4, the block & heads, hoses included, are gonna take 1 & 1/2 gallons more or less. These are the approximate amounts that I recall from EXPERIENCE. How does that add? Probably around 12 or 13 quarts. Gee, I never looked for quantity specs, I just mixed a 50-50 Prestone solution and filled the damn thing up! Who cares what GM published? Been doin this for 20 years, never needed specs!

                The Rev.

                Comment

                • David G.
                  Expired
                  • February 1, 1981
                  • 22

                  #9
                  Re: Radiator capacity-1960 small block

                  A 350 block, heads and intake manifold coolant runners wil hold almost exactly 8 quarts, the variance after that is based on equipment and radiator capacity. The genral rule of thumb is 16 Qqts. without a heater, 18 to 18.5 with a heater. However, there are some other variances, i.e. hoses, afterarket vs. original radiators and water pumps. My experience is that most people overfill the cooling system and do not understand why they are getting coolant onto the garage floor. Assuming that all of the components of the cooling system are in good condition and operating correctly, and you can certainly determine this with common diagnostics, the system will seek its correct level of coolant and purge itself of any excess.

                  Comment

                  • Paul Cantin #15830

                    #10
                    Re: SERIOUSLY

                    I'm not looking for an argument.

                    I'm just trying to find out why this car keeps overheating at idle.

                    I don't have 20 years of experience. I'm not a technician amd can only go to the book and try to do what is in print.

                    I've had this car to 5 different shops. No one can tell me why it's overheating.

                    I've spent thousands, trying to leave no stone unturned, with no results.

                    The only additional help I can get is from the board.

                    Thanks again for you input.

                    Comment

                    • Iron Duke NCRS #22045

                      #11
                      Filling the cooling system

                      About 16 quarts is the actual refill quantity for a SB. I start by pouring in two gallons of Texaco Entended life antifreeze (Dexcool) not Prestone, and then add distilled water until the level begins to come up in the expansion tank. Then start the engine and let it idle until the thermostat opens. The level in the tank will drop as air is purged. Once the air purging stops fill the tank up to about a quarter full and drive the car for ten minutes. After it has fully cooled (like overnight) check the expansion tank and correct the level as needed to have it about half full when cold. It's a good idea to recheck it when cold after the next couple of cycles to be sure it stabilizes at the correct level.

                      BTW if you don't remove the pipe plugs at the botton of each side of the block, at least two quarts of old coolant will remain in the engine that would otherwise drain. You really can't do a proper coolant change without removing the block plugs to drain the block.

                      Duke

                      Comment

                      • Iron Duke NCRS #22045

                        #12
                        Re: SERIOUSLY

                        There's a lot of info in the archives on overheating. If you havn't already, you should research it. Things to look at in terms of Is it the correct part" and "does if function properly" are initial timing, centrifugal advance, vacuum advance, fan, fan clutch, radiator shroud, thermostat, water pump impeller. If your car has the correct parts and they are all functioning properly, the engine should not overheat at idle. It's a matter of thoroughly and systematically checking everything that can possibly cause overheating.

                        Duke

                        Comment

                        • John F.
                          Expired
                          • January 1, 1979
                          • 62

                          #13

                          Comment

                          • Paul Cantin

                            #14
                            Re: SERIOUSLY

                            John, This car overheats at idle with the air condition off.

                            I'll get to that problem (air on) as soon as we get this one right.

                            Paul

                            Comment

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