Just put in a rebuilt dual point dist I got in Carlisle and tried to make it go, but not getting spark. There is only one wire and I have it going to "-" terminal of the coil. Inside, the points are connected to that one wire (both sets)ans it is all grounded, are these things that different from single points???
C-1 Dual points
Collapse
X
-
Re: C-1 Dual points
Do you have the condensor in it? Check resistance thru each set ot points, could be oxidation on the points.Bill Clupper #618- Top
-
Re: C-1 Dual points
Hi Jim....Suggestion,
Remove the cap, rotor etc. Have a helper kick the starter to get one set of points on the flat of the cam, i.e. closed. Put a small piece of cardboard between the other set. Turn on ignition, and with a small screwdriver, manually & carefully open and close the tip of the first uninsulated set of points. You should see the contacts arc a bit and hear it "ticking". Reverse the operation for the other set. If you don't see both sets arcing a bit, then recheck your gap on both. The points must be closed when on the flat of the cam. If you don't see the right results, clean the contacts with some folded over fine sandpaper by inserting it into each set of closed contacts and try the test again. If you still don't get arcing, recheck your wiring to the coil. Check your dist to coil- wire, it may be open circuit. Also check you have +volts to the coil+. If all above check ok, then the coil may be bad, or a condenser may be shorted. You can leave them off for the test, and reconnect one at a time. If you have a ohm meter you can check for a short on each individually.
Also, don't leave ign on too long as it eats up the points if they're closed.
And don't forget to reinstall the rotor after you're done! I do that 50% of the time!
Rich Mozzetta #13499- Top
Comment
-
Re: C-1 Dual points
If the above suggestions don't work, you might take off one set of points or leave the cardboard between the points of one set and adjust that set of points such that it does not ride on the cam lobe. Then you can adjust the points as normal and run the distributor with one set of points to get it running. You can worry about the dual point set up later. This assumes that the distributor is a stock dual point distributor and not one of the after market distributors wit a 4 lobe cam. I'm not sure it would work on those.
I've run my dual point distibutor with one set crippled for about 10 years. I have it triggering an MSD ignition box. Points have not worn out and the plugs have been kept clean.
Doug- Top
Comment
-
Re: C-1 Dual points
I'm still playing with this... What would cause readings on an ohm meter across and OPEN set of points, to be zero? This is on both sets, and I thought it was a bad condenser but I pulled that out of the mix. Also, what part number am I going to be successful with at the local napa or other pert store for points and condenser (these people look at me like I just said "I HAVE A BOMB HERE" when I start asking for dual points for a 61 corvette).
I do have a good ground through the distributor, so I'm good there, just no spark still...
Jim- Top
Comment
-
Re: C-1 Dual points
Jim -
When one set is open, the other set is closed, and they're wired in series; when one set closes the primary circuit, the other set opens it.
Contact sets:
Delco D-103P
NAPA/Echlin CS777A
Niehoff DR3HV
Borg-Warner A72
Standard DR-2236P- Top
Comment
-
Re: C-1 Dual points
I understand what you are both saying, but no spark wired in the car. On the bench, with cardboard inbetween the points (both sets) I get zero resistance from one "point" to its mate (cardboard in between) on both sets AND with the capacitor disconnected. Is it possible that both sets are bad? what would short out? the spring to the pivot? is there anything else that would make open points read zero resistance? Thanks for the help and for the part numbers, I'm going back out there to play some more!!!
Jim- Top
Comment
Comment